Why Arizona’s Saguaro National Park stands tall among its desert peers

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TUCSON — Hiking along a rocky trail in Saguaro National Park, it won’t be long before you pause for a swig from your Hydroflask, look around to soak in the views — and sense that a posse of cowboys is about to gallop over a nearby ridge.

For that we can thank Hollywood, which from the beginning, was drawn to the desert surrounding Tucson like a hummingbird to a cactus flower. The list of TV and movie westerns filmed here — a stand-in for any place from Texas to Mexico — is as tall as the towering cactus for which the park is named.

To many visitors, the park’s terrain is the desert, or at least the one in their mind’s eye. With its low, sharp-pointed ridges and otherworldly vegetation, this particular corner of Arizona — perhaps seen beneath a magenta and gold sunset — is the postcard shot.

But not all deserts are created equal, and nothing helps you appreciate a place like Saguaro National Park than a long road trip through the Southwest. Those other vast expanses of nothingness — also defined as desert — make the case that the landscape in and around Tucson is uniquely beautiful.

That’s because at an altitude of 2,643 feet and with two rainy seasons, the Tucson area is the most heavily vegetated part of the Sonoran Desert, says park ranger Melanie Florez. And that’s no small thing considering the vast scope of the Sonoran, which starts in northern Mexico and includes most of the Baja peninsula and the southern half of Arizona, stretching into southeastern California and the Coachella Valley.

In Arizona, the Sonoran Desert reaches just north of Phoenix, which is closer to sea level than Tucson, and about 8 degrees hotter on any given day. While saguaros can be found throughout the Sonoran itself, the Tucson area offers an optimal growing environment for this long-limbed icon of the American West.

If you’ve ever seen a photo with saguaros crowding a hillside, chances are it’s somewhere near Arizona’s second largest city, also known as the Old Pueblo.

A desert for all seasons

But the saguaro is merely the headliner for a roster of desert vegetation to be seen as you hike or drive through the park. You’ll also spot spiny ocotillo, huge clumps of prickly pear and the tiny hedgehog and stubby barrel cactus, as well as spiky mesquite and palo verde trees.

While each season has its draw, spring, when the desert blooms with yellow, orange and purple wildflowers, is hands-down its most beautiful and busiest time of year. Fall is similarly temperate and winter offers the chance to see the water flowing in the washes. Arizona’s merciless heat makes summer significantly less popular, although hotel rates drop as precipitously as temperatures rise.

Florez does not recommend hiking when temperatures are high and points out that they don’t even attempt guided hikes in summer.

“We have a heat indicator,” she says. “If the animals aren’t running around, you shouldn’t be running around.” And no matter when you visit, she adds, “bring plenty of water.”

Saguaro East vs. West

Saguaro National Park is actually two parks, separated by a metropolis of 1 million residents. In 2017, the park drew nearly 965,000 recreational visitors, Florez says.

If you’re arriving from the Phoenix area, Saguaro Park West, is closer. It’s also somewhat smaller and the 5-mile loop road, roughly 1.5 miles from the visitor’s center, is unpaved. If you want to avoid the loop road — something car rental companies strongly  encourage — several county roads go through the park. While you can enter the park in other ways, it’s a better experience to go in from Speedway Boulevard over the dramatic Gates’ Pass, which is part of the Tucson Mountains.

Like its counterpart on the east side of town, it offers a variety of trails that range from a leisurely meander around the visitor’s center to full-day treks. If you’re in Arizona for Spring Training, the west park is about a two-hour drive from Phoenix —and it’s near two other tourist attractions, as well: The Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum, a regional showcase for native plants and animals, and Old Tucson, the one-time movie set where the street scenes of many old westerns were filmed.

Saguaro Park East is about 20 miles away, on the opposite side of the city, where it wraps itself around the foothills of the Rincon Mountains. But the drive can be worth it, especially if you’re staying in town for a few days. It’s also about 500 feet higher in altitude, larger and it boasts both numerous hiking options and a lovely, paved 8-mile driving loop.

That’s a lot of geography to absorb. Your first stop should be the visitors center to pick up maps and tips. But don’t spend too much time inside. You’ll want to drive, bike or walk around and imagine how you’d frame your remake of “Stage Coach.”

IF YOU GO

Saguaro National Park: Established in 1994, this National Park is open every day but Christmas. The entrance fee is $10 per vehicle; $5 to walk or bicycle in. Visitors centers for both the east and west parks are open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. The centers have bookstores, restrooms and exhibits, but no food concessions. It is purely a day-trip kind of park Find more information at www.nps.gov/sagu.

Where to eat outside the east park:

Saguaro Corners has been serving hungry travelers since 1956, offering an eclectic menu that ranges from fish tacos, to prime rib to quinoa salad. There’s also live music several nights a week. 3750 S. Old Spanish Trail, Tucson; www.saguarocorners.net

McGraw’s Cantina offers steaks, burgers, a patio, full bar and mountain views. 4110 S. Houghton Road, Tucson; www.tucsonmcgraws.com

Outside the west park:

Many visitors to the west park combine the trip through Gates Pass with a visit at the critically acclaimed Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum, which include the Ocotillo Cafe and several snack bars. Insider tip: Visit here first, on your way to the park, as the museum’s desert animals tend to hide away in their natural habitats as the day heats up. 2021 N. Kinney Road, Tucson; https://desertmuseum.org.

Old Tucson is a family-oriented theme park with staged gunfights, saloon musicals, living history presentations, film history tours, and a handful of low-key rides. It’s open daily from Jan. 1-April 28, closed for most of September and open on weekends and holidays the rest of the year. 201 S. Kinney Road, Tucson; www.oldtucson.com

Saguaro smart

The saguaro cactus (Carnegiea gigantea) was named after Andrew Carnegie.

The largest cactus in the U.S. grows very slowly, but can live to be 150 to 200 years old. A 10-year old plant might only be a couple of inches high but can grow to be 40 to 60 feet. They often, though not always, grow “branches” that reach upwards and resemble arms.

In rainy seasons, when a saguaro is fully hydrated, it can weigh between 3,200 and 4,800 pounds.

Saguaros flower in late spring; red fruit appears in summer.

Saguaros are not currently listed as threatened or endangered, but Arizona has strict regulations about the harvesting, collection or destruction of this species.

Source: Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum