The Sea of Cortez: Life Abounds Above and Below the Surface

I like visiting cities where I can walk – wandering weaving streets, catching a glimpse of daily life through doorways or meandering along a pedestrian block as life buzzes by. It’s the first thing I do when I land – giving me a chance to get my bearings, and in the case of La Paz, Mexico, uncover some of the jewels that would ultimately define my experience.

Two hours north of San Jose del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas, La Paz is on the Sea of Cortez, on the east side of the Baja. Once described as “the aquarium of the world” by Jacques Cousteau, the turquoise-hued sea is a playground for whale sharks, sea lions, manta rays and countless other marine animals. In the equally blue sky above (La Paz boasts more than 300 days of sunshine a year), you’ll quickly spot pelicans, herons, vultures and eagles, scoping out their next meal.

La Paz sits on the Sea of Cortez in Baja, Mexico (Photo: Paula Worthington) 

It’s the walkability of La Paz that first drew me in. Its waterfront isn’t shaded by huge hotels, rather, the Malecon, a 5km long pathway for roller skaters, walkers, joggers and strollers lines the city centre, dotted with 13 statues and sculptures that provide a nod to La Paz history – from pearl harvesting, to settlement, to sea life.

Colour murals are part of La Paz’s appeal (Photo: Paula Worthington) 

Head a block or two inland, and you’ll see huge, colourful murals that depict stories about La Paz – more than 20 in all. The city is very clean – a new law has been put into place that aims to reduce ALL disposable plastic (straws, containers, forks, spoons, bags, cups) in restaurants and convenience stores by August of this year.

Located a 40-minute boat ride from La Paz, Camp Cecil, on Isla Espiritu Santo (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) is the kind of place we dream of running away to. Eight white guest tents line the broad white beach, complete with sun chairs, rugs, and a small metal bucket filled with water, letting you dip your feet and remove any sand before walking into your soft-walled hotel room style suite. Because let’s face it – sand in your bed might be the biggest problem you encounter when you stay here.

Approaching Camp Cecil on Isla Espiritu Santo (Photo: Paula Worthington) 

Camp Cecil’s team greeted us warmly, adeptly moving our bags from boat to tarp to tent, giving us an efficient tour of the facilities (including how to use the compostable toilet and outdoor solar shower), and the schedule for our Chef-prepared meals. I quickly ditched my flip-flops, put my phone to airplane mode (there’s no service anyway), and let the sand sift between my toes – I was on island time now.

Live outdoors at Camp Cecil (Photo: Paula Worthington) 

Once settled at camp, you can explore the area with your guide by land, kayak, paddleboard or boat. We opted for a boat ride that took us further north to Isla Los Islotes, a large rock outcropping and permanent home to more than 500 sea lions. Don a snorkel and hop in the water with them, where the juveniles will curiously swim around you, showing off their swimming skills, weaving beneath your toes and then popping up face-to-face for a closer look. While these sea lions are friendly, steer clear of the rocks, where more the more vocal and assertive males stake out their territory.

The Baja is home to an abundance of wildlife (Photo: Paula Worthington) 

Returning to camp, the sun was starting to sink towards the blue horizon, so I quietly took a paddleboard out into the sheltered cove, the water calm and clear as a swimming pool. Peering below, I could see scores of fish darting beneath my board, and purple starfish lining the sand floor. The incoming sound of a motorboat made me turn my head – it was the delivery of the catch of the day.

Hand caught by Santiago and Mario, ages 91 and 84 respectively, the arrival of the fishermen brothers would mean ceviche, shrimp and grilled triggerfish on the table later that night.

Catch of the Day near La Paz, Mexico (Photo: Paula Worthington) 

The gentle lapping of waves outside my tent screen might be the most perfect wake-up call I’ve ever heard. We headed back out on the water, this time towards a shallow bay, a seasonal home for whale sharks, thanks to its abundant supply of plankton and krill. These creatures, with their signature Morse-code white spots and wide-open mouths, can measure up to 10 metres in length.Thankfully, their preference for microscopic organisms make sharing the water with them the least nerve-wracking shark experience I could consider.

The area is closely monitored – boats must be licensed, and only a certain number of people are permitted in the area for a certain number of hours on any given day.

Taking the plunge from the boat to the water, knowing there’s a 10 metre-long shark somewhere below the surface, requires a leap of faith. I’ll admit, I had imaginings of getting unwittingly sucked into its Dyson vacuum-like mouth, carrying on a (likely very brief) Moby Dick existence from inside the beast.  But my imagination proved much wilder than reality. With my head in the water, I saw the whale shark glide unperturbed by me. I took a big breath and started to glide, swimming alongside the gentle giant. It reminded me to slow down, relax, and tp both figuratively and literally, let the current take me.

Out of the water, La Paz is a great launchpad to ventures to towns like Todos Santos, or day trips to the west coast to see the grey whales, who migrate to Magdalena Bay each winter to breed, birth and raise their young. Their lagoon is 120 km long and only part of it is accessible by boats, but a dozen or more sightings are possible in a single visit.

A grey whale surfaces on the west side of the Baja Peninsula (Photo: Paula Worthington)

The Baja California is home to one-third of the world’s marine mammals, so while this seemingly narrow strip of land (some 1,200km long) may be quickly overlooked, like many things in life, it’s what below the surface that truly counts.

Getting there: La Paz is a two-hour drive from the San Jose del Cabo International Airport. Rent a car and drive the well-maintained four-lane highway, or take a shuttle service.

Staying: Hotel Catedral, located a short walk from the Malecon. Advance reservations for Camp Cecil are required, prices start at $375pp / night including accommodation, all meals and beverages, chartered boat service, and all activities.

Eating: Tacos 24 hours a day? You’re not dreaming. Take a seat inside or out at Rancho Viejo for fresh tacos, served all day and night. Sample local fare at NIM Restaurante, or Mediterranean-infused cuisine at Sorstis. Finish your night with a mescal infused cocktail at La Miserable. You’ll likely be tepidly greeted by the resident cat, but beware – she’s the namesake of the bar.

For more information: www.golapaz.com.