With holidays near, Rioja's fame has a dual edge

Other regions like Ribeira Sacra and Montsant have taken the spotlight, yet Rioja forges on, a comfortable choice with its legs in the past.

Perhaps, then, the innovation that has washed over the rest of the Spanish wine industry has a place in Rioja, too.

2005 Bodegas Riojanas Vina Albina Reserva Rioja ($30, 13.5% alcohol): This traditional producer near Cenciero, in Rioja Alta, had a stellar showing for its full line of wines.

The 2001 Gran Reserva ($50, 13%) shows a hair more age and complexity - chestnut, copper - but also the wonderful vitality of Tempranillo.

The mix of 20 percent Garnacha with Tempranillo makes for more brambly fruit to fill in a distinctive mineral core of flavor, plus mustard seed, dried oregano and wonderful freshness.

2009 Bodegas Riojanas Puerta Vieja Crianza Rioja ($17, 13.5%): The bodega's younger drinking wine, mostly Tempranillo with 15 percent Mazuelo and 5 percent Graciano, aged for 18 months, is as old-school as they come: sanguine, brooding, with gunmetal, shishito pepper and tangy cherry.

2010 Bodegas Franco-Espanolas Bordon Crianza Rioja ($13, 13.5%): Another longtime name in the region, and in this case it's their unadorned take on Tempranillo, with a smoky edge, plenty of fresh but concentrated fruit flavors, and a dried parsley herbal side.