Taste-Off: The most delicious sliced ham — and the slimy seconds

Few foods hit as many flavor notes as a bite of ham; it’s sweet and salty, smoky, herby, spicy and savory. Not only is it an instant snack, it’s also an easy flavor boost. Drop it in quiche, throw it on pizza, tuck it into a breakfast sandwich, or pile it on a bagel. It’s a lean protein with big flavor.

The first thing to know about sliced ham is that there are two basic types; cured and uncured. Cured ham relies on potentially harmful chemicals — sodium nitrites and nitrates — to boost flavor and prolong shelf life. Uncured ham uses natural preservatives such as celery and cherry powders (natural nitrites), salt and other extracts. As a result, uncured ham is darker and saltier; cured ham is light pink and sometimes less salty.

Other differences in ham have to do with the type of cut used, the method and the type of wood used in the smoking process, and the added flavorings. Some sliced ham is made from trimmings that are compressed into logs; others are cut from hunks of pork. Black Forest ham gets its flavor from being smoked slowly over pine or fir. Other popular styles of ham are flavored with maple, honey and peppercorn.

Great sliced, packaged ham is tender and moist, as it’s sliced off a whole, perfectly seasoned, expertly smoked ham. It’s slightly sweet and salty, a hit of authentic smoke and just enough spice to make it interesting. Bad sliced ham is too sweet or salty, or simply tasteless. The worst is slimy, rubbery and so pumped with water that it needs to wrung out before placing it on bread.

Here are details on sliced ham that’s too tasty to resist, and the sad, slimy slices that are best left on the shelf. Nutrition info refers to 56 grams or 2 ounces of ham; 2 to 4 slices.

Columbus Smoked Sliced Applewood Ham

These tender slices of traditional smoked ham have a delicious balance of flavors that allow the flavor of the ham to shine. 70 calories, 2.5 g fat, 490 mg sodium, 2 g sugar, 11 g protein. $4.99 for 8 ounces at Trader Joe’s. (4 stars)

Applegate Naturals Black Forest Uncured Ham

Those who like ham with big smoke flavor will love this moist, flavor-packed ham. Slices are tender and literally juicy — in a good way. 70 calories, 2 g fat, 470 mg sodium, 1 g sugar, 12 g protein. $6.29 for 7 ounces at Raley’s. (4 stars)

Trader Joes Black Forest Uncured Ham

A bold punch of smoke and dense, chewy meat make this a great choice. The only downside are the tough rinds. 70 calories, 1 g fat, 730 mg sodium, 1 g sugar, 12 g protein. $4.69 for 8 ounces. (3 1/2 stars)

Three Little Pigs Jambon de Paris French Ham

This uncured, sous-vide ham is packed with herby flavor and is distinctly meaty and fresh. This is a great pick for adventurous eaters. 60 calories, 1.5 g fat, 260 mg sodium, 2 g sugar, 8 g protein. $6.99 for 6 ounces at Whole Foods. (3 1/2 stars)

Kirkland Signature Black Forest Ham

If you can forgive some gristle in some of the slices, this is an impressive packaged ham, especially for the price. Flavors are authentic and understated, and the low sodium content is a bonus. 60 calories, 2 g fat, 390 mg sodium, 1 g sugar, 10 g protein. $9.78 for 1.66 pounds at Costco. (3 stars)

365 Whole Foods Organic Black Forest Uncured Ham

A vinegar note plus a tough outside rind detract from the otherwise clean, complex flavors in this herby, unusual ham. 60 calories, 1 g fat, 360 mg sodium, 1 g sugar, 11 g protein. $6.99 for 6 ounces. (2 1/2 stars)

Hormel Natural Choice Smoked Deli Ham

Ordinary is the best way to describe this ham. The slices are extra thin and a bit slimy, but the flavor is fine. 60 calories, 1.5 g fat, 580 mg sodium, 1 g sugar, 10 g protein. $4.99 for 8 ounces at Safeway. (2 stars)

Signature Sliced Cooked Ham

Discerning eaters would pass on these spongy rectangles cut from a composite log, but they are entirely edible. 60 calories, 2 g fat, 400 mg sodium, 2 g sugar, 10 g protein. $4.99 for 14 ounces at Safeway. (2 stars)

Good & Gather Uncured Black Forest Ham

Aside from being decidedly rubbery and over-salted, this is OK. 60 calories, 2 g fat, 530 mg sodium, 1 g sugar, 9 g protein. $3.49 for 9 ounces at Target. (2 stars)

Bar S Premium Deli Smoked Ham

The artificial smoke flavor in this salty ham is overpowering, and it’s so wet it needs to be pressed dry. 70 calories, 2 g fat, 683 mg sodium, 2 g sugar, 9 g protein. $3.88 for 12 ounces at FoodMaxx. (1 1/2 stars)

Land of Frost Bistro Natural Black Forest Uncured Ham

The texture of this is promising, but the flavor is reminiscent of construction paper. 64 calories, 2 g fat, 560 mg sodium, 1 g sugar, 10 g protein. $6.19 for 8 ounces at Raley’s. (1 star)

Farmer John Classic Premium Ham

The searing salt level in this ham is simply inexcusable. 60 calories, 1.5 g fat, 880 mg sodium, 1 g sugar, 9 g protein. $3.19 for 12 ounces at FoodMaxx. (1/2 star)

Oscar Mayer Lean Ham

This ham begs a question: Why? It’s spongy and wet, smells like canned ham and it’s basically flavor-free. 70 calories, 2 g fat, 516 mg sodium, 1 g sugar, 10 g protein. $5.69 for 16 ounces at FoodMaxx. (1/2 star)

Reviews are based on product samples purchased by this newspaper or provided by manufacturers. Contact Jolene Thym at timespickyeater@gmail.com. Read more Taste-off columns at www.mercurynews.com/tag/taste-off