Mallorcan town Pollenca has boutique wineries, tasty pastries and stunning scenery

HAIRPIN bends and sheer cliff drops down to the sparkling waters of the Mediterranean are just two of the eye-catching sights en route to Vinyes Mortitx, a boutique winery 15 minutes from Pollença.

The Ma-10 weaves its way through the Serra de Tramuntana mountains, jagged grey-green hills where hazelnut-hued goats and mop-like sheep munch on acorns.

The mountain air, sea breeze and clay-rich soils help produce unique wines, like the almost-savoury giró ros (a native white grape) and a syrah with notes of plum and leather.

Vinyes Mortitx is one of half a dozen wineries in the area. Here, a tasting of five wines comes paired with Mallorcan cheeses, charcuterie and pa amb oli – olive oil bread rubbed with garlic and topped with tomatoes – £23 per person (Vinyesmortitx.com). 

At nearby organic winery Can Axartell, where a striking glass structure is built into an old quarry, a tour and tasting of six wines with platters of local produce costs around £42 per person (Canaxartell.com).

OLD TOWN CHARMS

Wineries on the doorstep is just one reason to fall in love with Pollença, a charming town in Mallorca’s north, which is less-visited than Palma and more chilled-out than notorious Magaluf.

With its cobbled streets lined with butter-coloured stone buildings, the old town sits within a mountainous backdrop.

Adults-only haven Can Aulí Luxury Retreat is right in the centre.

Duck out of the courtyard and you’re steps away from restaurants, bars and boutiques.

Or stay in and take a dip in the gorgeous outdoor pool, sheltered by the walls of the three 17th-century townhouses that make up the hotel.

There are just 21 rooms, each decorated with Mallorcan-made accessories – think woven throws and ceramic coffee cups.

Double rooms cost from £165 B&B (Boutiquehotelcanauli.com).

On our first morning in Pollença, we take the short walk to the main square, Plaça Major – the heart of the town’s maze of steep, cobbled lanes.

It’s Sunday, so market stalls are piled with fresh fruit and vegetables, bread, pastries and cured hams, while tables display silver jewellery and hand-crafted leather handbags and purses.

Nearby, Panord Forn Pollença is a bakery specialising in ensaïmadas – sweet pastry spirals, plain or filled with pumpkin jam, that are ubiquitous on the island (Panord.es).

Later, we grab a leisurely lunch at Numero Ocho Brasserie, whose tables spill out into Pollença’s main square.

The chilli-laced linguine with jumbo prawns, £18, is delicious, and even better with a glass of the local white wine, £6 (Brasserie8.com).

CLIMBING HIGH

Thankfully, Pollença offers plenty of ways to walk off all the foodie treats.

Ascending the Calvari Steps – a flight of 365 broad stone stairs leading to a 12th-century chapel – is considered a rite of passage.

The cypress-lined route has sculptures and cute shops like Sol y Tierra, which sells island delicacies including olive oil and flavoured salts (Solytierra.eu).

A more challenging hike leads to hilltop monastery Santuari de la Mare de Déu des Puig, a few minutes from town.

We set out in the early sunshine and it takes around an hour to reach the 14th-century sandstone monastery and chapel, with stunning views across town to the mountains and sea beyond.

Back in Pollença, Oh Vermut proves a cute spot for dinner, just off the main square and serving up spritzes and tapas dishes, such as spicy sardines in olive oil, £4.75.

SUNRISE PADDLES

On our last day, we get up early and make the short drive to Port de Pollença.

The broad promenade is lined with restaurants and cafes, looking out to the bay and its pine-fringed beaches.

We join a sunrise standup paddleboarding tour with Mallorca SUP Co, around £55 per person for two hours (Mallorca-sup.com).

Our guide Hannah leads us on a gentle paddle towards the still, navy-blue horizon as it fades into a yellow-orange sunrise. 

We glide – and occasionally wobble – in the direction of Formentor Lighthouse, which crowns a craggy peninsula at the northernmost part of Mallorca.

The sky’s beautiful swirling colours would be enough to knock anyone off their board, so we pause cross-legged to take in the morning light show.

On the way back, we stop at Cala Ciuro, a tucked-away sandy cove where a pair of mountain goats skip down the hillside, eyeing us curiously.

They sum up Pollença perfectly – an adventure with wild, and sometimes quirky, beauty.