How to do a cheap holiday to the Amalfi Coast with bargain wine and affordable package deals
EVER fancied the Amalfi Coast but can’t quite justify the cost?
You could fork out hundreds for a hotel in the pretty celebrity hotspot of Positano, where you’ll have gorgeous beaches on your doorstep.
But the port town of Salerno is only a 30-minute boat ride away — and costs a fraction of the price.
Book a budget bed here and you’ll have all that spare cash to splash on fresh pasta, delicious wine and seaside fun.
WHY SHOULD I GO?
Salerno is less than a 40-minute train ride from Naples, the birth-place of margherita pizza.
While there, don’t bother with the best-known restaurants that have (very) lengthy queues, as pretty much anywhere you go will be tip top.
The city of Salerno isn’t as chaotic as the heaving streets of Naples, but it still has more of a buzz than the quiet towns of Ravello and Minori on the shimmering Amalfi coast.
Plus it’s cheap.
Our three-night getaway cost about £100pp, including return flights, transfers and hotel.
STREETS MADE FOR WALKING?
Everything in Salerno is within walking distance, from shopping to restaurants — and even the ferry port, where you can grab a boat over to glamorous Positano.
It costs 18 euros return to get to Amalfi or 28 euros return to get to Positano (see travelmar.it) where you’ll need comfy shoes for rambling as the narrow streets are rocky and mountainous.
Bring some cash to spend on the market stalls selling locally made clothes and seasonal fruit and veg.
Pack a cozzie too, as the waters here are warmer than many seaside towns in Europe because they sit in a suntrap protected by the craggy cliffs.
ANYTHING FOR BUCKET LIST?
The ancient ruins of the city of Pompeii sit between here and Naples.
About 40 minutes away from Salerno by train, Pompeii is a must-see.
The Roman city was entirely engulfed by volcanic dust in 79 AD when the roaring mount Vesuvius erupted.
More than 2,000 people died and the city lay abandoned for years, but the ash preserved many of the buildings, which are still intact.
What makes the experience even more chilling are the casts of the victims, made by archaeologist Giuseppe Fiorelli, who poured plaster over the preserved bones of animals and the city’s residents.
WHERE SHOULD I EAT?
Forget the Amalfi Coast if you’re on a budget.
The food is just as fresh in Salerno — possibly even better, in my experience — but it won’t cost you a fortune.
At 8pm, a queue forms outside Mamma Rosa, a small, inconspicuous restaurant hidden down a side street with budget dinners that will blow your socks off.
It’s proper Italian grub cooked and served by a proper Italian nonna, Mamma Rosa.
There aren’t many tables, so go early and make sure you’ve had a light lunch as the portion sizes of fresh octopus ragu pasta, fried anchovies with fennel and traditional Amalfi lemon desserts are huge.
Grab some wine too — it costs £7 for a litre of very decent red or white.
When you tire of pizza, pasta and gelato, book a table at Prunus (prunus.it).
At £25 a head, the all-you-can-eat sushi menu is unbeatable value and has the sort of food you’d expect from a fancy, high-end restaurant in a British city.
I FANCY A DRINK . . .
Walk along the seafront and pretty much all of the cafes serve classic Aperol spritz and local wine.
They may seem like quiet coffee shops in the day, but at night these cosy spots come alive, with locals spilling out on to the streets.
If you’re after something special, then Passa Duomo faces the chalky steps to a magnificent cathedral and sells terrific cocktails, from colourful blue Mai Tais to marshmallow White Russians in the coolest street setting.
They host regular music events too so check out their Instagram or Facebook page ahead of visiting.
WHERE SHOULD I STAY?
The Plaza Hotel is in the centre of the city and opposite the train station.
Double rooms cost about £66 a night.
Or stay in the Grand Hotel, which overlooks the sea and has a snazzy bar serving Aperol spritz and cocktails for less than £7.
Go: Salerno
GETTING THERE: Ryanair flies from Luton to Naples from £16.99 each way.
See ryanair.com. A train from Naples to Salerno costs under £5pp on thetrainline.com.
STAYING THERE: The Grand Hotel has B&B doubles from £46 per night.