5 throwback skincare trends we were obsessed with in the 2000s — and 5 new techniques we've swapped them for

St. Ives Apricot Scrub has a divisive past. It's a mechanical exfoliant, meaning it physically scrapes off dead skin cells to reveal glowing skin — at least, in theory.

With these types of exfoliants, "how abrasive it is and how much it exfoliates depends on how much pressure you apply and how much you use," said Lee. 

When asked for comment, a spokesperson for St. Ives said the brand has reformulated its product: "We currently offer a range of deep, moderate, and gentle exfoliants to help customers find the product that best fits their skin type and needs." They also noted that new products are in the works for 2023 "to meet these evolving needs."

What we've swapped it with: Chemical exfoliants. While people still use the updated version of St. Ives Apricot Scrub, the market is flush with all kinds of exfoliants. Lee recommends chemical exfoliants, which use alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs, like glycolic or lactic acid) and beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs, like salicylic acid) that break down dead skin cells or help unclog pores — all with "less room for error."

Of all the 2000s skincare trends, this one made Lee's "heart cringe" the most. "We know that cumulative sun exposure adds up and increases your risk of all types of skin cancers," she said, from melanoma (the deadliest) to basal cell skin cancer and squamous skin cancer. "There's no such thing as a 'safety tan.'" Plus, she noted, using tanning beds and oils or even just lying on the beach with no sunscreen also increases the risk of premature aging in the skin.

What we've swapped it with: Spray tans and daily sunscreen. Luckily, studies show that tanning bed usage has greatly decreased since the early 2000s. While Lee still sees patients who use tanning beds at their gyms or college campuses, she finds that spray tans have become a "very safe method to achieve that tan look without the UV exposure."

Plus, she said, it helps that tanning itself can bring about textural changes that people who tan want to avoid in the first place. "By decreasing your sun exposure, you can actually achieve both goals of being healthy but also  maintaining the cosmetic aspects that people are really going for like an even complexion, suppleness of the skin, and minimal wrinkles."

Sometimes, the best things for us feel the least intuitive. This is especially true when it comes to avoiding moisturizers in the early aughts because of the fear that it would make oily skin greasier. Of course, the opposite is true: If your skin is too dry, it produces more oil, which can clog pores and create more acne. 

What we've swapped it with: Hydrating moisturizers, face masks, and serums. Thankfully,  "we know it's really important now to have an intact and healthy skin barrier that has moisturization in it," said Lee. She recommends using products with ingredients like hyaluronic acid and ceramides, and to buy moisturizers that say "non-comedogenic" on the label to avoid excess oiliness. 

This habit was so pervasive, even Lee remembers trying it as a teenager. "It was this urban myth that came about because some toothpastes have baking soda and alcohol or hydrogen peroxide that can kind of dry out an acne lesion," she recalled. "Now we know that that can just cause further irritation."

What we've swapped it with: Transparent hydrocolloid patches. Lee recommended the ones with salicylic acid, which is a BHA and is "targeted more towards those sebaceous glands and pores and can help decrease inflammation." There are also other topical treatments (including antibiotics) as well as steroid injections for bigger cysts.

Avril Lavigne, Alicia Keys, Lindsay Lohan, P. Diddy, Jessica Simpson, Vanessa Williams, Katy Perry... the list of celebrities who appeared in Proactiv's iconic infomercials goes on.

And while the benzoyl peroxide treatment didn't work for everyone, Lee says it was still a revolutionary step forward when it comes to modern skincare.

"I think what Proactiv did that was very effective was also create a regimen out of it," she said. "Even though we may purchase skincare products, the ability to use them and to remember to use them every day is hard." As the first over-the-counter acne medication, Proactiv helped get people into the habit of using an effective active ingredient like benzoyl peroxide. 

What we've swapped it with: More specialized acne products. While Lee says Proactiv could work for mild acne, there are luckily so many more treatment options these days — from over-the-counter face washes to anti-inflammatory prescriptions and retinoids. 

All in all, Proactiv was a big stepping stone in normalizing the idea of a daily skincare routine. According to Lee, it's now very common knowledge that you should wear sunscreen and moisturize every day. But back in the 2000s? "I don't think that was part of our common language or even something that we really thought about."