Red flags that tell you a TikTok-famous skincare trend is not worth the hype

• Beauty and skincare products are heavily advertised on social media platforms.
• It's not always easy to tell what's worth buying or what's way overpriced.
• Two dermatologists share their tips for making informed decisions on new products.

When it comes to buying almost anything, social media platforms largely influence what we splurge on. There's just something about seeing a non-celebrity's enthusiastic video testimonial that makes us trust their retinol review more.

Of course, platforms like TikTok and YouTube are rife with sponsored posts and exaggerated claims, and it can be hard to tell which expensive skincare items are actually as life-changing as people say they are. Nothing is sadder than swapping out your Cetaphil for a doubly-expensive skin cream, only to immediately break out and toss the sleekly packaged product in the trash.

To help, we spoke to two dermatologists for their tips on debunking the overhyped drops from the time-tested cleansers.

Skip anything with "overnight" benefits

If it sounds too good to be true... you know the rest. 

"I am cautious when I see products that have immediate or overnight benefits," Dr. Joshua Zeichner, an Associate Professor of Dermatology at the Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City, told Insider. "Most skincare products take several weeks or even months to exert their effects, and they don't give home-run types of benefits."

Prescription-strength retinol or in-office microdermabrasion sessions usually take time to make a difference, so no over-the-counter serums or derma rollers will make that huge a difference that quickly.

Avoid ingredients you've never heard of

Scrolling through skincare TikTok or Instagram can lead to information overload, with conflicting advice and products on what to actually do with your skin.

To declutter, it's good to have concrete goals on what you want to achieve besides "perfect" skin.

"I encourage patients to focus on active ingredients and whether the active ingredients align with their main skin concerns," Dr. Ivy Lee, a board-certified dermatologist practicing in Los Angeles, told Insider. For example, if you have dry winter skin, you can gravitate towards products with hydrating hyaluronic acid.

Be skeptical about high prices

Here's some great news: High-quality products don't have to be expensive.

For one, Zeichner said that cosmetic costs are just derived from the ingredients themselves — everything from the container to the manufacturing and testing fees determine the price of a product. 

So if you're just looking for effective, no-frills moisturizers, "there are many inexpensive brands available at your local drugstore that will do the trick," said Zeichner. Some of the most recommended products from dermatologists include ones from brands like CeraVe, Neutrogena, and Aveeno. Even celebrities can prefer low-cost products to their pricier counterparts. 

Watch out for products that will overload your routine

Despite all the eye creams and facial masks promoted, TikTokers are now opting for pared-down skincare trends like skin cycling.

Dermatologists also emphasize simpler skincare routines over 12-step ones, which ironically can do more harm than good. "Both acne flares and irritation are a common risk of using too many or too much of skincare products," said Lee, who recommends taking a slow, cautious approach in incorporating new items in your regimen. "This is especially important for products that contain retinoids or exfoliating acids," she noted, which can cause irritation or redness.

So if you want to swap your sunscreen for something less chalky, great. But if you're considering adding a third serum to your nighttime routine, consider skipping it entirely.

Be wary of DIY procedures 

Both Zeichner and Lee cautioned against DIY hacks. "Just because something is natural does not mean that it is safe or better than traditional skincare products," said Zeichner. For example, microneedling kits are all over TikTok but pose risks of injury or infection if used incorrectly.

If you really want to give that at-home chemical peel a try, it never hurts to reach out to your dermatologist first. "I have my patients reach out to me virtually or keep a running list of questions to discuss when we meet in person," said Lee.

When in doubt, get a second opinion (and save yourself from the possibility of a medical bill later).