Inside the US city that has secret bars, majestic monuments and the world’s first airplane
HIDDEN round the back of the takeaway restaurant, a large fridge door opens up on to a real-life Narnia.
But instead of mythical creatures inside, there’s rows of whiskey bottles and a bar lined with tumblers of the amber liquid, as well as cherry-topped cocktails.
Chicken + Whiskey is just one of Washington DC’s many fabulous drinking holes — many hidden away, which dates back to the 1920s Prohibition era when alcohol was banned in the US.
America’s capital city is a melting pot of different cultures, with grand embassies representing every corner of the globe, and an exciting food and drink scene that will ensure you never go hungry or thirsty during your visit.
People don’t just come for the bars, though. The city is bursting with history — home to majestic cathedrals as well as monuments and memorials dedicated to great figures of the country’s past such as presidents Thomas Jefferson and Abraham Lincoln.
You’ll see it all on a leisurely bike tour with Unlimited Biking. A highlight of the trip is the National Mall — an area of landscape parkland and waterways home to world-class museums and galleries and those monuments.
Best of all, many of the attractions are free for the public to enjoy.
But top of my list of must-sees at the Mall was the National Air and Space Museum, which has recently reopened after a billion-dollar rebuild.
History museums do not get any better than this. Among its prized possessions is the world’s first airplane, flown by the Wright Brothers in 1903 — an invention which was to spark an explosion in human aviation.
Visitors are then taken on a journey through the early years of flight, leading to one of mankind’s greatest achievements — the first manned mission to the moon, in 1969.
The Apollo 11 capsule and the space suit worn by astronaut Neil Armstrong — the first person to walk on the lunar surface — are both on display, together with pieces of moon rock.
Beg for more
But if museums don’t tick your box, take a stroll around historic and elite Georgetown University and admire the rows of beautiful houses nearby.
Horror movie fans may recognise some of the buildings here from 1973 movie The Exorcist. The steps where one character in the American horror flick is thrown to his death have become an unconventional attraction — DC truly has something for everyone it seems.
And you may not get the chance to step inside the Oval Office at the White House to meet US President Joe Biden, but you can enjoy your own slice of political history by dining at Martin’s Tavern, close by.
At this busy restaurant, customers can enjoy a meal in a wooden booth where President John F. Kennedy proposed to future First Lady Jacqueline Bouvier — who later remarried to Greek shipping magnate Aristotle Onassis.
JFK lived two blocks from here and even wrote his inaugural presidential speech in one of its famous booths.
Martin’s has hosted a slew of other US Presidents, too, including Richard Nixon, who once gorged on meatloaf in one of the dark corners.
For a livelier night, head to Peruvian eaterie Pisco Y Nazca Ceviche, where I dined on the best Latin food I have ever tasted. Mind-blowing zest and spice, fresh fish, and cocktails that really pack a punch combine to deliver a fabulous feast of flavours.
For something special, try Michelin-starred Bammy’s, in DC’s old Navy Yard on the banks of the Anacostia River.
Its talented team serve up Caribbean cuisine which makes patrons loosen their belts and beg for more. If you don’t like spice, then be warned — even some of the drinks have chillies in them. But the melt-in-the-mouth jerk short rib is out of this world. At night, the city’s famous speakeasy-style bars come alive — but don’t expect them to advertise the fact they’re open . . . that would be too easy.
Similar to Chicken + Whiskey, The Gibson has an unmarked front door, concealing yet another door which has to be knocked before you’re let in.
Inside is a dimly lit cocktail bar where political operatives meet to make or break careers in the capital.
But many of the city’s best hotels have their own impressive bars, too, so you need not always venture far for a drink.
I stayed at the Thompson Hotel, which has a terrific rooftop cocktail bar offering stunning views of the city.
Handily, it’s just a 45-minute taxi ride from Dulles Airport and less than ten minutes by car from the city’s major monuments.
So, has DC got all the ingredients for the perfect city break?
Imagine New York or London, shrink it down to a tenth of the size and let it simmer with political intrigue. Season with excellent culture and nightlife and, hey presto, you’ve got DC.
The sort of capital city that dreams are made of.
GO: WASHINGTON DC
GETTING THERE: American Airlines flies from London to Washington DC from £545 return. See aa.com.
STAYING THERE: Rooms at the Thompson Hotel start from £180 per night. See hyatt.com.
OUT & ABOUT: A Monument and Memorials guided bicycle tour with Ultimate Biking costs from £44. See unlimitedbiking.com/washington-dc.
For more information, visit washington.org.