The Designers to Watch at New York Fashion Week
Don’t expect to see any runway gimmicks at this year’s New York Fashion Week. A preliminary skim of September 2023’s NYFW schedule reveals an emphasis on ready-to-wear, with brands like Michael Kors, LoveShackFancy, Cos and Head of State on the agenda. But dig a little deeper and you’ll find names such as Grace Ling, Chan Chit Lo and Sho Konishi, all set to make their debut. These up-and-coming designers are redefining what ready-to-wear means, helping blend art and fashion in everyday life. So, don’t let the familiar names fool you—from September 8 until September 13, NYFW is going to get weird in the most fashionable way possible.
Day one starts off strong with shows by Helmut Lang, Christian Siriano and Ralph Lauren, among others. Although you might recognize these brands, don’t skip over them in search of the hot new thing; these big three are not to be missed.
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Peter Do’s debut collection as creative director of Helmut Lang promises a continuation of the brand’s minimalist, ‘90s-leaning aesthetic, but with Do’s sharpness and knack for tailoring. Formerly at Céline and Derek Lam, Do has kept to the shadows and maintained a lofty air of mystique in the fashion world. Helmut Lang’s badass legacy of deconstructivism and simplicity is projected to ground Do’s designs, fitting with this Fashion Week’s more wearable theme.
Christian Siriano’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection at New York Fashion Week in February was a stunning display of florals and old Hollywood glamour. Known for extravagant gowns constructed to flatter the body, the brand’s return to NYFW will no doubt serve as inspiration for galas and red carpets to come.
What’s more, Ralph Lauren is returning to New York Fashion Week, after last appearing on the schedule in September 2019. Fresh off the brand’s annual collaboration with the U.S. Open, consumers can anticipate a timeless, preppy show with pieces to wear to any high-class occasion.
Now, onto the hot stuff. On September 9, cult-favorite brand Khaite’s show promises to build upon their luxurious knitwear and denim staples. With quiet luxury still a major trend in the current fashion market, Khaite seamlessly fits the bill when it comes to understated yet plush details. And speaking of knitwear, Rachel Scott’s Diotima has a show on September 11—crochet is the star player in her technically masterful pieces that embrace fabric and color play.
Kozaburo, a brand known for Japanese-style menswear, is showing on September 12. With an emphasis on denim and layering, Kozaburo is hoping to join the ranks alongside other popular Japanese designers such as Junya Watanabe and Yohji Yamamoto.
Menswear brand Willy Chavarria’s show is on September 13. Contrary to Kozaburo’s funky risk-taking, Willy Chavarria keeps it casual with clothes rooted in NYC street style. However, the brand isn’t afraid to get gritty with acid washes or graphic tees, and past runways have showcased more avant-garde, voluminous silhouettes.
Closing out NYFW is a digital release by Melitta Baumeister on September 13. The German designer and sculptor, known for her experimental silhouettes, will release photos of her collection online. Additional online releases and events open to the public can be found here.
As usual, Tribeca’s Spring Studios and Bryant Park will be home to many of the runways this season. But select locations around Brooklyn are also on the schedule, such as the Street Style runway show at Sutton Studios on September 10.
Although there are not as many designers showing at NYFW this season, other honorable mentions include LaQuan Smith (who outfitted Sydney Sweeney in that dress), Brandon Maxwell, Sergio Hudson and Carolina Herrera. No matter what style you gravitate towards, this Fashion Week promises exciting yet approachable pieces from brands both old and new.