Crystal, a cruise line that went under during the pandemic, sails again

Twinkies, Toys R Us and Gymboree share the distinction of being beloved consumer brands that were euthanized by their parent companies, but resurrected under new ownership to the delight of distraught devotees.

A cruise line being added to the list of brand favorites brought back from the dead is nothing short of a maritime miracle on the heels of a pandemic. But when the gorgeous Crystal Serenity pulled into Lisbon the other week, completing a 12-night maiden voyage in the Mediterranean, so returned industry darling Crystal Cruises (crystalcruises.com).

For its ardent and affluent following, the 1 1/2 years spent lamenting over their loss must have been rough — not unlike being without one’s favorite cellophane-wrapped snack cake or pair of children’s retailers. The hardship could be felt all the way in South America. Several months ago, off the coast of French Guiana on another ultra-luxury cruise line, a senior-aged woman from California felt the need to tell a travel writer that she and her BFF were only sailing with Silversea “because our favorite, Crystal, is gone.”

Well, if Mark Twain cruised luxury liners instead of riverboats, he’d say that the report of Crystal’s death is an exaggeration. Administering the CPR that resuscitated the adored symmetrical crowned seahorse logo is a company with a long history of lux travel. A&K Travel Group, the parent company of tony tour operator Abercrombie & Kent, purchased two original Crystal ships: Serenity and Symphony. Recently returned from a recent “shakedown” cruise, this fan of the brand can confidentially say that if the preview sail is indicative of what cruise life is like under the new ownership, Crystal is in good, well-manicured hands.

In many ways, the cruise line is better than ever — and that’s saying a lot for a brand that for three decades had made good on the promise of “delivering the exceptional.” What was great before still is, down to the bar-raising genuine hospitality of the crew and OMG-worthy miso-marinated black cod at Umi Uma. And what had been somewhat lacking by Crystal standards — the entertainment is top of mind — is now extraordinary.

Two different production shows a night being the norm is one area where Crystal’s new stewardship is spending the big bucks. Such robust evening programming is unheard of on ultra-luxury-class ships.

Within a year of buying the orphaned Serenity and Symphony, launched in 2002 and 1995, respectively, A&K went down to the steel to renovate these floating five-star resorts. Whereas other companies would be tempted to increase density for higher revenue per square foot — as Windstar did when it cut Star Breeze’s hull to seamlessly insert a 50-cabin section, and when Cunard sliced the back of its Queen Victoria to add 43 new staterooms — A&K actually has reduced passenger capacity with both acquired vessels by, among other waves of a magic wand, enlarging suites by combining adjoining cabins. As a result, Serenity now maxes out at a slender 740, down from 980 pre-sale. Its bones are actually built for 1,080 guests; the ship’s first successful liposuction was performed during a refit in 2017. The older Symphony, which begins service in September, now holds 606 passengers, down from 848.

All this shape shifting has resulted in Crystal now sporting perhaps the best guest-to-space ratio in the industry. On Serenity, returning guests will first notice the wide, open spaces in the two-deck Atrium, a lovely location for lounging, libating and listening to live music. The rebuilds have spawned redesigned stateroom categories from as large as the 1,265-square foot Crystal Penthouse Suite with custom stone foyer floor master bath, to the 215-square-foot, oddly named Double Guest Room that comes with a veranda or ocean view, but not the nasty single supplement that punishes solo travelers.

The sweet spot for accommodations is the Sapphire Verandah Suite, and they make up 151 of the 377 staterooms on Serenity. It’s a shame to call them a standard suite because they measure a nonstandard 537 square feet. The equally plus-sized balcony adds another 107 to the floor plan.

Reincarnated Crystal is still as classy as ever, just like Serenity’s godmother, Dame Julie Andrews, whose portrait still hangs proudly on Deck 5. Crystal’s signature Palm Court six levels higher out-panaches rival observation lounges with panoramic floor-to-ceiling windows, large skylights and sweeping unpretentious elegance that makes an afternoon tea and nighttime dancing on the hardwood even more special.

The 500-seat Galaxy Lounge and smaller Stardust Club are the main entertainment venues aboard Serenity. The bigger stage is home to production shows that freshen up old material with some of the best singers and dancers afloat. “Crystal on Broadway” threads selections from “Rent,” “West Side Story” and the lesser-known, and thus refreshing, Renaissance-set musical comedy “Something Rotten!” Was that an “F-word” and “S-word” we just heard? On a cruise ship? Yup, Crystal is that cool.

Something else that’s cool and definitely not rotten is signing James Fox of Broadway and London’s West End fame to bring his musical talents on Serenity and Symphony. The versatile and personable performer does right by Billy Joel, a natural program inclusion as Fox starred in the Piano Man’s jukebox musical “Moving Out.” On another night he will present “My Influences” that features personal favorites from an array of artists and accompanied by a solid seven-piece band.

Unlike the competition, entertainment abounds on Crystal day and night. Besides the largest venues, there’s the Avenue Saloon piano bar, atrium-set Crystal Cove featuring rotating international musicians, a movie theater, dance parties poolside and inside, and standup comics who, on Symphony, will yuck it up in Crystal’s first dedicated comedy club. Always a hit is the Crystal White Dress Party hosted on every cruise.

More diversion is found on the top deck for a go of paddle tennis, pickleball, golf practice and ping-pong. Elsewhere are venues for swimming, hot-tubbing, dancing, and, inside an impressive 3,000-square-foot fitness center, exercising. Children and teens get dedicated spaces, as do smokers; American cigar aficionados will appreciate being able to legally light up real Cubans, with or without a fine cognac, at the lordly Connoisseur Club.

Neither Crystal ship has a casino anymore as gambling isn’t in the cards for the new owners. But you can still lose your shirt getting a massage at the Aurora spa. Rejuvenation of the body, mind and soul are just an appointment away.

In addition to the usual treatments, Aurora can work on your bloat and fatigue, and has skin-correcting light simulation therapy on the menu. Besides its name — Aurora is the goddess of dawn — light also factors in the spa’s décor; materials used in the common areas purposely reflect and refract natural sunshine with shimmering splendor. One nit: The absence of refreshment in the waiting room is a miss. A spa without detox water is like a cruise ship without an Italian specialty restaurant.

Great segue, because Crystal has that, too. Northern Italian cuisine is what’s on the menu at Osteria d’Ovidio, which replaces Prego from the previous generation. While nothing can beat the osso buco or signature cream of mushroom soup from before, the tortello pasta filled with braised beef, figs and gorgonzola cheese, washed down with a tasty peach bellini, have the new concept showing promise.

The other specialty restaurant, Umi Uma, maintains Crystal’s association with celebrity chef and restaurateur Nobu Matsuhisa, a master at marrying traditional Japanese dishes with Peruvian ingredients. Winners on the menu include the yellowtail sashimi jalapeño and aforementioned black cod marinated in Saikyo miso, a richer, sweeter glaze than its saltier cousins. Also sweet is that everyone gets to enjoy the two specialty restaurants at least once a cruise without a surcharge — a nice treat when an order of that amazing cod runs $50 at land-based Nobu locations in Newport Beach, Malibu, West Hollywood and around the world.

The other eateries on the ship, from the more casual grill and buffet to a sit-down tapas kitchen and main dining room, are no worse or better than Regent Seven Seas, Seabourn and Silversea. One standout among the revamped non-specialty fare on Crystal is the split pea burger, and this is coming from a strict omnivore.

Be it as minor as a new vegetarian dish in the buffet or as major as a ship rebuild, Crystal is clearly not cutting corners as it returns to service under A&K’s stewardship. In fact, the only noticeable sign of downsizing by the new owners is the name. “Crystal Cruises” has been trimmed to just “Crystal,” but good luck getting the majority of those currently booked to change their old ways. That’s because 8 of 10 signed on to sail with Crystal through 2024 are returning passengers, according to Cristina Levis, CEO of A&K Travel Group.

Eighty percent also is the number of laid-off Crystal workers who were brought back by the new owners. Seeing familiar faces goes a long way with brand-loyal Crystal cruisers, especially when they’re spending a reported average of $18,000 per booking. That amount should rise now that Crystal is part of a portfolio that includes Abercrombie & Kent, a global travel network known for curating experiential travel. Shore excursions and other land-based cruise extensions should get a whole lot better on sails to Alaska, the Mediterranean, Northern Europe, Canada/New England, the Caribbean, the Middle East, Asia, Australia, New Zealand and through the Panama Canal.

Voyages out of California, all on Serenity, include an eight-night itinerary from San Diego to Vancouver that embarks on June 24 (fares start at $3,600 per person), and a six-nighter from Los Angeles to Vancouver starting Aug. 21 ($2,700 and up per guest). Both journeys include calls in San Francisco and Astoria, Ore. Got the cruise fever for more Crystal? A pair of world cruise itineraries of 125 or 141 nights, the latter adding a Panama Canal segment, depart from San Diego on Feb. 3.

Looking beyond next year, the 2025 itineraries are rolling out, and Crystal disclosed on the shakedown that four more ships are planned to join the fleet by 2029. The first two — a classic ocean liner with a capacity of about 650 passengers, and an ice-class expedition vessel that holds roughly 220 guests — could begin construction as early as June. That will increase A&K’s Crystal collection to six stylish ships.

Not bad for a cruise line that less than two years ago had a burial at sea.