Phoebe Philo’s New Collection Is Finally Here — With a Few ‘It’ Shoes in the Making

Today is the day.

After years of speculation and months of anticipation, Phoebe Philo has at long last launched her own fashion brand.

The British designer debuted her eponymous label this morning on PhoebePhilo.com, with the first drop (or “edit,” as the brand is calling it; A1 is the collection name) landing on the site just after 11 am EST.

The direct-to-consumer collection made up of 150 pieces is launching with limited quantities on Philo’s online store, part of a supply-and-demand tactic that the brand attributes as part of its sustainability efforts.

“The Phoebe Philo business model is designed to create a responsible balance between production and demand. For us, this means producing notably less than anticipated want,” the brand said in a statement ahead of the launch.

A first look at both campaign images and the shoppable items now listed on the site reveal that the collection sits squarely within the current quiet luxury trend happening in fashion — but with the addition of the clever, subtle details that Philo has become known for over the years. A substantial offering of shirts and bottoms are done in neutrals, with flair here and there (relaxed trousers with high zippered slits; cargo pockets; silky scarf tops; signature oversized button downs). The most embellishment within the collection comes from a series of hand-combed fuzzy textured pants, jackets, skirts and dresses that provide dramatic volume.

Any Philo fans hoping for a signature fuzzy shoe will have to wait (or look for more Old Céline) as the footwear lineup is one of the more streamlined categories of the collection. The 12 styles currently available on the site are all leather — and notably all heels — focusing on classic shapes that are done with a Philo twist. In this season of stealth wealth dressing, it’s a recipe for a few styles to quickly join the latest crop of “It” shoes.

A series of heeled pumps come with the designer’s signature toe-cleavage-covering high vamps and duck-billed square toes; the latter detail is also done on a simple leather bootie with an angled collar. There are also a few platformed booties, outfitted with tapered heels and exaggerated pull straps, plus one vintage looking lace-up ankle bootie and a “Club” loafer with a slim silhouette, soft-tapered square toe and cutaway, concave heel. As of publishing, the non-fringed versions of the “Club” loafers had already sold out on the site.

The collection is reported to be a mix of high and low pieces, and pricing for the items now available on the site starts at $400 for sunglasses, working their way up to $8,500 for a no-frills supple leather tote bag and $16,500 for a full-length, double breasted coat done in caviar shearling. The footwear sits in the middle of these price points, at $1,100 for a pair of pumps to $1,750 for booties.