Taste-Off: The best buttermilk pancake mixes — and the terrible ones

Making pancakes on a busy morning seems like a lot of trouble, not to mention a sticky mess. And it is — but the appreciation in the eyes of those sitting in front of a stack of fluffy, butter-topped pancakes is so worth it.

The trick, of course, is to stock up on great quality mixes that are so expertly formulated that they produce tender, flavorful pancakes in minutes.

Since there is such a broad range of pancake and waffle mixes on store shelves, we decided it was time for a buttermilk pancake mix showdown. We grabbed every mix we could find, stirred them up and heated the griddle.

Many mixes suggest boosting nutrition and protein by using milk or egg instead of just water, but we opted to level the platform, adding only water to each mix. It was clear at the outset that there are big differences between the mixes. Some are white and dusty, others clumpy and yellow. Some list buttermilk high on the ingredient list, others have it at the end, indicating that it has a mere trace of the headline ingredient.

Good buttermilk pancake mix turns out pancakes that rise before they turn dark, resulting in delicious, slightly sweet bites. The very best are creative mixes that incorporate hints of vanilla, maple and brown sugar, making for flapjacks so tasty, they may not even make it to the plate.

Bad pancakes range from pasty to tasteless to crumbly. The worst are flat, salty, rubbery rounds best left on the plate.

Here are details on the mixes that will turn out such terrific pancakes, you may need a double-batch — and the ones to avoid. Nutrition information refers to 1/2 cup of mix or two medium-sized pancakes.

Birch Benders Organic Buttermilk Pancake & Waffle Mix

Fresh grains, a big hit of tangy buttermilk and just a touch of sugar make these moist, fluffy pancakes flat out delicious. 280 calories, 1 g fat, 820 mg sodium, 16 g sugar, 8 g protein. $6.79 for a pound at Whole Foods; $4.88 at Walmart. (4 stars)

King Arthur Baking Co. Buttermilk Pancake Mix

Brown sugar and a big hit of buttermilk make these pancakes a winner. Just be sure to add a bit more liquid than the recipe suggests. 226 calories, 6 g fat, 410 mg sodium, 6 g sugar, 7 g protein. $6.69 for a pound at Raley’s. (3½ stars)

Kodiak Power Cakes Buttermilk Flapjack & Waffle Mix

Deep nutty flavor, thanks to a combination of whole wheat and oat flours, make these extra-flavorful, but the pancakes are a bit too dense and grainy for some eaters. 220 calories, 2.5 g fat, 450 mg sodium, 4 g sugar, 15 g protein. $8.69 for 20 ounces at Raley’s. (3 stars)

Hungry Jack Complete Buttermilk Pancake & Waffle Mix

Consider this mix a kitchen workhorse. The buttermilk flavor is minimal, but the pancakes rise well, brown nicely and have a winning vanilla-like flavor thanks to malted barley flour. These are tasty enough to eat as a grab ’n’ go snack. 130 calories, 520 sodium, 6 g sugar, 3 g protein. $3.99 for 2 pounds at Smart & Final. (3 stars)

Krusteaz Buttermilk Complete Pancake Mix

Easily one of the most consistent mixes on the shelf, this go-to brand turns out airy cakes, no matter how long the batter sits — and the price point is great, especially for a mix this good. That said, the flavor is ordinary and lacks the tang of real buttermilk. 210 calories, 650 mg sodium, 10 g sugar, 4 g protein. $2.94 for 2 pounds at Walmart. (3 stars)

Betty Crocker Buttermilk Pancake Mix

While these have pleasant texture, due to the addition of cornmeal, the pancakes cook up disappointingly thin. 250 calories, 3 g fat, 610 mg sodium, 9 g sugar, 6 g protein. $3.49 for 37 ounces at Smart & Final. (2 stars)

Raley’s Buttermilk Pancake & Waffle Mix

This ho-hum mix packed in an unlined cardboard box is OK, but the recipe for the batter is off and the flavor is flat. 220 calories, 2.5 g fat, 620 mg sodium, 8 g sugar, 6 g protein. $6.48 for 4 pounds. (2 stars)

365 Organic Buttermilk Pancake & Waffle Mix

Lots of buttermilk flavor is a plus, but when mixed according to the directions, the pancakes are floury, dry and crumbly. A splash of oil might help. 203 calories, 0.7 g fat, 406 mg sodium, 3 g sugar, 6 g protein. $4.49 for 2 pounds at Whole Foods. (1½ stars)

Pearl Milling Company Buttermilk Complete

You’ll have to drown these in syrup or plaster them with jam, as they are basically flavorless. Even worse, the unlined box leaves a trail of powder in your kitchen. 206 calories, 2 g fat, 631 mg sodium, 6 g sugar, 6 g protein. $3.44 for 2 pounds at Walmart. (1½ stars)

Great Value Complete Buttermilk Pancake & Waffle Mix

The only thing this mix gets right is the leavening. The cakes are fluffy but tasteless, and they lack buttermilk flavor. 210 calories, 2 g fat, 580 mg sodium, 8 g sugar, 4 g protein. $1.98 for 2 pounds at Walmart. (1 star)

Arrowhead Mills Organic Buttermilk Pancake & Waffle Mix

The use of organic ingredients is a plus, but this blend is desperate for baking expertise. The cakes turn out pasty, flat and rubbery. 240 calories, no fat, 560 mg sodium, 6 g sugar, 8 g protein. $7.39 for 22 ounces at Whole Foods. (½ a star)

First Street Buttermilk Pancake & Waffle Mix

This clumpy, moist concoction looks promising, but it turns out salty, chemical-forward cakes that are nearly inedible. 193 calories, 3 g fat, 701 mg sodium, 4 g sugar, 5 g protein. $2.49 for 2 pounds at Smart & Final. (No stars)

Reviews are based on product samples purchased by this newspaper or provided by manufacturers. Contact Jolene Thym at timespickyeater@gmail.com. Read more Taste-off columns at www.mercurynews.com/tag/taste-off.