Weekend Whipper: Over-Stoked Climber Forgets to Clip Crux Bolt (?!)
Readers, please send your Weekend Whipper videos, information, and any lessons learned to Anthony Walsh, awalsh@outsideinc.com.
Climbers are an obsessive bunch, we know, but sometimes our psych actually impedes our performance. Daniel Xambre was extremely excited to make the first ascent of his route O Que é Teu Está Guardado (5.12b) and literally forgot to clip during the crux sequence.
“By the time he realized it,” friend and videographer Ed Padilha writes, “he was already past the point of clipping. So, he decided to continue… but ended up falling because he lost concentration.”
What did he learn from this lapse in concentration? “That excitement cannot override concentration, otherwise we may fail in our attempts to send our projects,” Padilha writes.
The route, which translates to “what is yours is kept,” is located in Setor Pedras Brancas, in Piraí do Sul, Brazil. Piraí do Sul is one of the country’s best crags, with approximately 500 routes and plenty more lines to be opened. “There are sport routes up to 5.14d,” Padilha writes, “and traditional routes up to 5.12c on very good sandstone in a lush landscape with beautiful waterfalls.”
Sounds idyllic to us. But clip those bolts before you admire the scenery.
Happy Friday, and be safe out there this weekend.
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