At the centre of the typical Christmas table stands a whole bird, the star ofthe show against which all the rest – vegetables, stuffing, sauces – are mere supporting acts, there to garnish without claiming any of the glory. My meal is more egalitarian, with each dish made and presented to stand proudly on its own, each complex enough in its own right to satisfy and please. Such an approach allows everybody to have a little bit of this and a little bit of that, take a break, then go back for more, while still feeling abundant, generous and plentiful. As Christmas should be.Stuffed chicken thighs with barberries and fetaBarberries, or zereshk, are tiny dried red fruit with a tremendously sharp flavour. They come from Iran, where they're used to add freshness to rice and chicken dishes. Buy them from Middle Eastern grocers or specialist online shops. If you can't get any, use cranberries, chopped and soaked in lemon juice, instead. Serves four.8 small chicken thighs (or 4 large ones), bon...
