The Shop Bar and Grill review: Fuel-injected new life for former Sam & Tommy’s
For years, Sam & Tommy’s — a blend of local watering hole, site of amateur volleyball leagues and live music — was a fixture in Painesville Township. A blend of local watering hole, site of amateur volleyball leagues and live music, no one would have called it THE destination in the eastern portion of the county, but it was A destination.
For the past two decades or so, however, the venerable spot on North Ridge Road has endured its ups and downs. Various owners have dealt with change brought on by new, family-oriented housing developments in the area, as well as needed repairs to the old building.
Frankly, it’s been an identity crisis of sorts. At least one owner kept the name, upgraded the kitchen and pushed a food-focused “bring your kids to taco Tuesday” vibe. Another changed the name to include “saloon” and shifted the focus again to live music but brought in DJs on the weekends to attract a crowd of younger adults, it would seem. Unfortunately, several owners bailed faster you could say “the old Sam & Tommy’s.”
The latest iteration is The Shop Bar and Grill, operated by the same local ownership group as another local bar, Mr. Lee’s, around the corner in Perry. The latter opened three years ago, that longevity perhaps already a testament to doing things right.
The new moniker seems a tip of the cap to the nearby Painesville Speedway, as the automotive theme is unmistakable. Behind the bar, it looks like a mechanic’s workbench, with tool drawer décor and pegboard on the wall, complete with painted tools. The menu features an appetizer section titled “Get Your Motor Runnin’” and a sandwich category called “Hand Tools.”
The place is clean and also maybe not as dimly lit as you’d expect a neighborhood bar to be. I’ve lost track over the years of who did what to which parts of the décor, but during what was my first visit to The Shop , it felt fresh. Where there aren’t license plates and automotive stickers, there’s a lot of what might be reclaimed wood.
The bowling machine, which I think is the same one that has been there in various places for decades, is now situated perpendicular to the north end of the long bar. The skeeball machine is new, and a colorful, cartoonish mural that someone spent a lot of time on adorns the eastern-most wall behind a small stage.
In the gravel-and-dust parking lot was parked the Just Wingin-N-It trailer, the mobile unit of the establishment’s (and, presumably, Mr. Lee’s) chicken-wing venture. My older son, a teen, has raved about wings from that trailer, and, recently, my younger son and I decided to give them a try. The kids and I are always looking for great wings.
At The Shop wings are found under “Get Your Motor Runnin” header on the menu. (The theme is unrelenting.) Wings are expensive everywhere these days, so 12 traditional for $14.99 or 12 boneless for $11.99 were reasonable. My smaller son is less adventurous than his big brother, so we landed on mild and garlic-parmesan versions.
It’s of note that there were maybe a half-dozen sauces available, which I admire in a place that hangs its hat on wings. I’d much rather be offered five or six flavors done well than 15 sauces, at least half of which are mediocre.
The Shop’s wings were perfectly cooked, the right combination of crispiness on the outside while the inside tenderness is maintained. The sauce was light but was also kind of absorbed into each wing without sacrificing the crispy skin, which I love. The garlic-parm wings were the best I’ve had in a while, just the right amount of garlic-y sweetness and parm dusting. I’d argue that the mild wings were really mild, but there is no medium option — it’s mild or hot at The Shop — and I like that attitude.
My son, who loves fries, got an order of the Bone Stock Fries, which he called “amazing.” They were crispy but not overcooked and seasoned just right. At $2.99 for a side portion, I think there could have been more of them.
I also got a Big Block Cheese Steak ($13.99), which consists of shaved ribeye, provolone cheese and sauteed peppers and onions on a hoagie roll. The steak was flavorful and the portion of fillings generous. The roll added to what was a darn good sandwich.
Sandwiches and burgers come with house-made chips in a variety of flavors, but I upgraded to onion rings for $2.99. They were on the crispy side, which we didn’t mind at all.
Beer-wise, I counted 10 tap handles, one of which was a hammer labeled “Shop Light” with the establishment’s logo. I didn’t ask what it was. There were a couple of craft brews available, and my happy hour-priced Rheingeist Truth IPA — for, I think, $3 — was an absolute steal. At the risk of nitpicking, but it could have been a tad colder.
Our server was friendly and attentive even though she was doing double-duty behind the bar. There was another bartender, however, and the place was running smoothly. In a time when some places often seem understaffed, that was not the case here on our visit.
There is again live music on the weekends and karaoke every Wednesday. The volleyball leagues have been revived, and there are bowling and skeeball leagues now, apparently. It might not be your parents’ old Sam & Tommy’s — which isn’t necessarily a bad thing — but The Shop seems to mostly have things shifted into the right gear.
Reviews are based on one anonymous visit to a restaurant.
The Shop Bar and Grill
1808 N. Ridge Road
Painesville Township
440-867-2030
Location: South side of North Ridge Road, between Bacon and Fairport Nursery Roads.
Type of restaurant: Bar and Grill.
Hours: 11 a.m. to 2:30 a.m. Monday through Saturday and 11 a.m. to midnight Sunday (kitchen closes at 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and at 11 p.m. on Friday and Saturday).
Liquor and wine: Full bar.
Facilities for the handicapped: Yes.
Credit cards: All major.
Cuisine: Tavern.
Vegetarian: Several options.
Special diets: Ask about dietary preferences.
Kid-friendliness: Kids’ menu, family-friendly during dinner hours.
Outdoor dining: Yes.
Dress code: Casual.
Reservations: No.
Wi-Fi: Yes.
Online ordering: Yes.
Delivery: No.
Prices: Affordable. — appetizers mostly in the $8 to $13 range; burgers and sandwiches $11 to $14.
Value: Very good.
Ratings (of five):
Food: 4.5.
Atmosphere: 4.
Service: 5.