Glacier, Alpine, and Waterfall Ice Climbing defined
What does the North Ridge of Mount Baker, mountaineering on the Easton Glacier of Mount Baker, and Ouray ice climbing have in common? First, all involve some form of frozen water. Second, you need sharp pointy things, like your ice axe and crampons. The differences diverge quite a bit from there.
Getting out on a glacier climb is the entry level experience, from there you can find a wide range of both the difficulties and the medium you are climbing; it could be easy going glacier climbing on seasonal snow or a steeper alpine ice route that involves frozen snow (neve) to give you the proper conditions. And then there’s frozen waterfall ice, the more technical climbing done in winter.
Let’s get started.
Glacier climbing- what the heck is that? Am I climbing ice on a glacier climb, or what?
Glacier Mountaineering: By definition, glaciers are frozen, moving bodies of ice- so yes, a glacier climb like Mount Baker’s Easton Glacier could be called an ice climb. But, glacier climbs are all about terrain. What you’ll find are low angled slopes of glacier that allow for walking, but may occasionally require the use of an ice axe and crampons. It’s here that beginners can find their way without too much, if any, technical difficulties. Requirements for this type of climb are simple enough:
- A sense of adventure and ready to learn- all skills on climbs like the Easton Glacier can be gained while on the trip
- Good physical fitness
- The necessary equipment
What is the difference between the frozen waterfalls of Ouray, Colorado and for example, the North Ridge of Mount Baker?
Alpine Ice: Instead of short steep routes on waterfall ice that sometimes are only 100 feet high or less, alpine ice climbing takes place on the airy alpine ridges and big snow/ice faces; so we’re talking up to 2,000-feet+ routes on Cascade ice routes, to the monster faces in the Himalayas and Andes. Here its not all about just swinging your ice tools overhead to get your placement, its just going to require different different techniques- take a course to get it started with the Alpine Ice Course or the Mount Baker Ice Climbing Essentials.
- On the Cascades classic ice routes such as the North Ridge of Mount Baker rarely are there waterfall ice conditions encountered. Routes like the North Face of Mount Shuksan, or the North Face of Mount Buckner or Maude, take place on terrain the 40 – 60 degree angle, with usually frozen snow the medium. As a result, different techniques are used and only occasionally will you be using your ice tools overhead in piolet traction.
- Cramponing techniques also vary from French technique, which provides multiple or all points on the ice, or an American hybrid technique using one crampon in French and the other front pointing.
- While there is some cross-over in techniques used, it can be said that alpine ice and waterfall ice techniques are different.
On the North Ridge of Mount Baker you will transition from alpine ice climbing techniques on about 40 degree slope to a 1 – 3 pitch section that you will use waterfall ice techniques as you work your way up the ice cliff section mid-route. On a route like the North Face of Mount Buckner you’ll use pure alpine ice techniques as you ascend a consistent grade of steepness over the 1,000−2,000 foot route. While a ice climber may enjoy the variety of moves, the alpine ice climber enjoys the rhythm, the predictability of each move and an increased ability to move efficiently as a result.
Alpine Ice is Nice!
Waterfall Ice: The sounds of ice climbing frozen waterfalls – the pleasurable thwank of your pick going in with one swing, plates of ice cascading down from brittle ice breaking away, the screams of agony as your numb fingers warm up, your crampons crunching and your front points thunking, are as unique to ice climbing as the sport itself. One of the best places to experience it is in Ouray, Colorado where you can get guided climbs of the area’s classic, or you can take a curse if its your first time.
- It is generally colder, sometimes A LOT colder, determining not only your enjoyment, but also the type of ice you will encounter. With temps in the 20s-30s Fahrenheit you may encounter “hero ice,” which is the kind of ice provides easy to get, solid placements for your tools and ice screws. But, with temperatures in the let us say the 10 degrees above to minus 20 Fahrenheit this can change dramatically to hard, brittle, or chandeliered ice, all which can make getting good placements that much more difficult.
- Waterfall ice on the more technical sections always requires two ice tools and setting them overhead with aggressive swings, what as the French call piolet traction. Cramponing is generally using front points only, although occasional rest steps you are able to get more points in.
- In summary, the techniques used on frozen waterfalls is somewhat distinct to this medium when the ice is at a 50 – 90 degree angle.