The backlash to Witchery’s reduced size range has been a “bold awakening”

On July 1 Australian women’s apparel retailer Witchery unveiled its rebrand – only for consumers to learn that it had reduced its plus-size offering from a size 20 to a size 18.

The backlash was swift with the public sentiment conveying that Witchery appeared to be betraying its loyal customer base for a new, younger, whiter and thinner clientele.

The deep irony that the collection was titled ‘Bold Awakening’ was not lost on anyone.

“Naming the new collection ‘Bold Awakening’ while appearing to ‘sleepwalk’ back towards a narrower definition of the female beauty ideal – demonstrated not only be the reduction of their size range, but also the overwhelming use of thin, Caucasian models, feels deeply ironic,” Katrina Van De Ven, CEO of LükBook, an online shopping and styling destination for sizes 14 and up, told Inside Retail.

The reduced size range and the lack of diverse models depicted in the campaign imagery spoke volumes to Witchery consumers about the brand’s new target demographic.

“Customers value honesty and accountability. I feel that Witchery needs to own the misstep and commit to more active engagement with their customer base moving forward,” said Van De Ven.

The numbers don’t lie 

At the end of 2021, then-managing director Simon Schofield told Inside Retail that Witchery was expanding the upper end of its range from a size 16 to a size 20 in response to consumer demand.

“This is something our customer has been asking for, so I think she is going to be thrilled to see this in-store and online for Spring Summer 2022,” Schofield acknowledged.

The fact that the brand has reversed course just a few years later is puzzling, especially considering the fact that two-thirds of all Australian women are plus size, and the average Australian woman wears a size 16-18, according to Van de Ven. 

“This means there’s no shortage of size 20 customers, but points to a more inconvenient truth: the brand’s initial size expansion was mismanaged,” she stated.

Witchery explained in a social media post that its sizing had “become more generous, so if you were a size 20 with Witchery before, we welcome you to try an 18 instead”.

However, many customers were quick to point out that very few stores carry plus-size garments and that they are frequently redirected from the shop floor to the online site.

“Case in point: I ventured into my local Witchery store when the introduction of sizes 18 and 20 was first announced and was disappointed to learn that the extended sizes were only being trialled at a small number of stores across the country, and my best option was to head online,” explained Van De Ven.

According to research by LükBook, 85 per cent of plus-size women struggle to find the right fit when shopping online, with the problem even more pronounced when shopping for fitted and tailored pieces.

“Therefore, Witchery’s decision to limit the in-store rollout of these sizes felt tokenistic. Against this backdrop, why would size 18 and 20 women choose to spend their hard-earned money at Witchery?” questioned Van De Ven.

The new “fresh design direction” – led by head of design, Kirby Hanrahan, who was appointed in October 2023 – has been eclipsed by the customer outrage surrounding the brand’s decision to reduce its size range instead of expanding upon it.

“Witchery has underestimated how the newly reduced size range would be received by customers,” said Van De Ven.

“From the social media content that was produced for the relaunch, it’s clear that the design aesthetic of the new collection was the focus, with size 20 quietly removed from the range at the same time.”

Schofield stepped down as managing director in June 2023. He is now CEO of Cue Clothing Co. Witchery parent company Country Road Group does not appear to have named a replacement for Schofield. 

Body image isn’t a trend 

But the decline in body diversity within the Australian fashion industry goes well beyond Witchery’s latest ‘Bold Awakening’.

“When it comes to inclusion in mainstream fashion, the adage: one step forward, two steps back, rings true. Two years ago, we saw a dedicated plus-size runway show at Australian Fashion Week,” said Van De Ven.

“At the time, this felt like a major triumph, but in the years since diversity at Fashion Week has waned.”

Of the 1209 looks that were showcased at Australian Fashion Week this year by 38 different designers, only 1.1 per cent were plus-size (AU 18+), according to a report by Vogue.

Amongst the most size-inclusive brands were Nicol & Ford, Mastini, House of Campbell and Iordanes Spyridon Gogos – all small independent Australian designers.

“Interestingly, smaller brands tend to be far better when it comes to offering size-inclusive ranges, which refutes the assertion made by many larger brands that it’s too difficult or expensive,” said Van De Ven.

“We need to recognise and call out the fatphobia that exists within much of the fashion industry. I personally believe the resistance to extending size ranges is too often linked to this, although few brands would ever admit it!”

Van de Ven’s top picks for size-inclusive brands that showcase their pieces on a diverse range of models are Leina and Fleur, Orange Sherbert, Proud Poppy, Novella the Label, and Mama Movement.

“Many brands claim it’s difficult to deliver well-fitting collections for plus-size customers. In reality, it’s not – hundreds of small, Australian designers are doing it,” stated Van De Ven.

“However, it requires time and consideration during the patternmaking and scaling stages of the design process,” she added.

The controversy surrounding Witchery’s rebrand offers a lesson in community engagement and consumer trends for all fashion labels.

“It’s important for brands to remember that fashion trends come and go – but body size isn’t a trend,” concluded Van De Ven.

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