Fashion brands failing plus-size women are failing themselves

The holy grail of any business is finding product/market fit, which venture capitalist Marc Andreessen defines simply as “being in a good market with a product that can satisfy that market”.

When early-age investors consider a new business, the first thing they look for (even before evaluating a product’s viability) is the size and potential of the market. Incredible products can fail if the market is too small, while mediocre products can succeed if they address a large enough audience with a problem to be solved.

In fashion, where the majority of brands design up to only a size 16, the plus-size market (women who
wear size 18-plus) is often neglected, leaving limited options for millions of women.

The size of the market is not the problem

Earlier this year, Mys Tyler Insights gathered data from over 350,000 women globally to offer the fashion industry a large-scale and up-to-date resource. This data highlights the disparity between what women look like and what they are being shown and sold, urging brands to shift diversity and inclusion to the top of the agenda.

The data was rolled out country by country, starting with Australia, where over 32,000 profiles of Australian women aged 18 and up were analysed.

The results? Surprising to some, but not to the plus-size community.

• Over one-third (36.9 per cent) are considered plus-size (size 18-plus).
• The average Australian woman wears a size 16, which places her on the cusp of being considered plus-size.
• More than half (52.1 per cent) of Australian woman wear size 16 or above.

Despite these facts, brands continue to ignore this sizable and profitable market.

Recently, an iconic Australian brand stopped offering size 20, and now carries only up to a size 18.

Its rationale? A lack of demand. Our data shows 9.3 per cent of women wear a size 20, meaning this brand could be losing nearly 10 per cent of potential revenue by excluding that size.

Brands often claim that there isn’t enough demand for plus-size clothing to justify the investment, but the date tells a different story. When brands fail to provide adequate representation or stock plus sizes in stores, and cut corners in the design process, it perpetuates the false narrative that there’s no market for plus-size fashion.

The data clearly shows the demand exists, so why aren’t brands seeing it?

Here are three key areas where brands could be falling short:

1. Lack of representation in marketing

When plus-size women shop, they rarely see models who look like them. Even when brands do offer extended sizing, those items are seldom displayed on plus-size bodies. Without this visual cue, it’s hard to know without reading the fine print that they cater to plus sizes.

Showing a model who is size 14 is certainly more diverse than the norm, but doesn’t communicate that size 18 is offered.

2. Limited in-store availability

Another common issue is that even brands that offer extending size often carry only up to a size 16 or 18 in-store, with additional sizes offered online only. This forces plus-size women to gamble on fit, ordering clothes without the ability to try them on. Given the inconsistency of sizing across brands – and sometimes even within the same brand – this is a deterrent. By not stocking plus sizes in stores, brands
are telling plus-size women that they aren’t valued customers, driving many away.

I’ve heard from many women that they’ve visited a store knowing it offers extended sizes, only to be told
that there’s nothing for them in the store and getting turned away. This is a pretty unpleasant experience, and one that you can understand women would want to avoid. Over time, many plus-size women have just stuck to stores they know carry their sizes, or are left to order online from brands that they have tried and tested.

As one marketing executive in New York pointed out, it can take a new location up to 18 months to build enough awareness and customer loyalty to know it will be successful. The same principle may apply to brands that begin to offer extended sizing in-store. They may not immediately see the potential
demand, as it may require time and marketing to overcome previous negative experiences, and for women to know they are welcomed.

3. Poor R&D and design

Too often, brands take straight-size designs and simply scale them up for larger bodies without considering the unique proportions and fit requirements of plus-size women. This results in ill-fitting, uncomfortable clothing. Alternatively, some brands rely on loose, flowing styles that don’t reflect current trends, further alienating plus-size consumers who want to wear fashionable, well-fitted clothes.

The financial opportunity

The financial opportunity for brands that cater to plus-size women is undeniable. Studies from the US and UK show that the plus-size fashion market is growing faster than the overall women’s fashion market.

Brands that offer properly designed, well-marketed clothing in inclusive sizes are getting strong returns and increased customer loyalty. Brands that invest in this space – such as Eloquii and Torrid in the US
and Fayt The Label and Embody Women locally – have demonstrated the potential.

These companies have built loyal, engaged customer bases by focusing on plus-size women and treating them with the same consideration as straight-size consumers.

But there is still a gap in the market. There is an investment required – marketing, product and placement – but there’s a large, underserved market with a customer base eager to spend on the other side.

This story first appeared in the November 2024 issue of Inside Retail Australia magazine.

The post Fashion brands failing plus-size women are failing themselves appeared first on Inside Retail Australia.