Los Angeles chefs are rallying to keep the city fed, even while evacuating their own homes

• The Los Angeles wildfires have devastated the city over the last week.
• Local spots like Yeastie Boys Bagels and Sunday Gravy are working to feed evacuees and first responders.
• Pizza spots, including LaSorted's and Jon & Vinny's, are also sending free pies to firefighters.

On the second day of the Los Angeles fires, in a hotel restaurant filled with evacuees, bartender Jeff Braga watched as a child went up to his father seeking advice. They wanted to console a friend who had just lost their house.

"Dad, what do I say to him?" the child asked.

It's a question that just about everyone in LA has asked themselves as the wildfires — which have killed at least 10 people and burned over 35,000 acres in three days — continue to rage.

For the chefs, owners, and service workers in the city's sprawling restaurant industry, the answer to how to help was immediate — they needed to feed people, even amid their own evacuations.

A fire unlike any other

Many of the chefs who spoke to Business Insider recalled seeing the Palisades fire first break out on Tuesday morning.

"We have a clear view of the Palisades from our patio, so we saw the fire grow from a little cloud to a spread of darkness over the whole bay," said Calin Senciac, the owner of Papille Gustative in Santa Monica. "From the beginning, we were very concerned."

"The winds were crazy, and we started to see the smoke plumes up in the Palisades, and I was like, 'Wow, I hope that doesn't turn into something bigger,'" recalled Sol Bashirian, who co-owns Sunday Gravy with his sister in Inglewood. "I never would've imagined it could lead to this much devastation."

As new blazes ignited in Pasadena and the Hollywood Hills, Tommy Brockert of LaSorted's Pizza fled with his 3-month-old baby to his sister's house. Evan Fox, the owner of Yeastie Boys Bagels, grabbed just his passport and bar mitzvah photo album before getting out.

Then, it was time to figure out how they could help.

"I didn't know what I could do, but the least I could do is offer a pizza," Brockert said. "It was important to step up and say, 'We're here for you.'"

Rallying through food

As the fires raged on Wednesday, Fox decided to send his bagels to anyone in need. The Yeastie Boys Bagels trucks went to evacuation centers throughout the city, and they're now coordinating their efforts with the World Kitchen Center to feed hundreds of people daily.

Local businesses are also finding small ways to help their neighbors. Senciac is keeping his doors open and baking huge batches of fresh cookies to offer milk and baked goods to anyone who drops by.

"It's a comfort food that makes people happy and brings a smile to their face," Senciac told BI.

Bashirian of Sunday Gravy has offered free family meals — spaghetti, garlic bread, and salad — to hospital workers and anyone in need.

On Wednesday, Rob Noyola began serving free bowls of chicken noodle or vegan lentil soup at Oy Bar, his restaurant in LA's Studio City neighborhood. Now, with more staff on hand, Noyola told BI the restaurant is offering free burgers, sandwiches, and fries for evacuees and first responders, "no questions asked."

Okay Inak runs Sora Craft Kitchen in downtown LA on his own, but the lack of staff didn't stop him from springing into action to make free grilled chicken bowls. And Gigi Ganieva and Azim Rahmatov, who opened Zira Uzbek Kitchen less than two months ago, have switched gears to feed first responders.

A slice of comfort

Several LA pizza restaurants have also been working around the clock to deliver free pies to first responders in any way they can.

"Our first thought was we want to feed the firefighters and frontline workers. We want to keep the people fighting for our city fueled up; that's what we do," Daniel Holzman, the chef and owner of Danny Boy's Pizza, told BI.

Holzman and Brockert of LaSorted's Pizza have sent free pizzas to fire stations, relying on volunteers to deliver the pies. Brockert has also added a link on LaSorted's delivery site that allows people to buy a $25 pie for first responders.

Caroline D'Amore, the owner of Pizza Girl Venice, has been delivering pizzas and drinks to first responders on the Pacific Coast Highway after having to evacuate her home with her husband and three children.

Meanwhile, Jon & Vinny's has been delivering food from its five LA locations to the main command posts for first responders near the Eaton and Palisades fires. A spokesperson told BI that Jon & Vinny's is also helping collect and deliver free food from other LA restaurants.

'You realize how fragile life is'

Restaurants that remained open during the fires have become safe havens for those who have evacuated, lost their home, or taken in displaced friends and relatives.

"I was serving people that were just devastated," said Braga, a bartender at The Surfing Fox. "It was really heavy but also really nice to see this community band together."

"It's solemn. You can see it on their faces — they look tired and exhausted. They look like they've been through the most traumatic thing of their life," Bashirian said.

But through the tragedy, there has also been overwhelming support. Fox, of Yeastie Boys, told BI that amateur chefs have been reaching out to offer help, while Bashirian has raised close to $15,000 to help fund Sunday Gravy's family meals.

Celia Ward-Wallace, the cofounder and CEO of South LA Cafe, said the organization had a "huge influx of volunteers" to help deliver fresh groceries to those in need.

The dust has yet to settle, and the chefs who spoke to BI said they're just beginning their efforts to help the community. But they hope to shine a light on how devastated the city is.

"People are jaded and think LA is glitz and glamour, but it's real people, as real as anywhere else in this country," Bashirian said. "They could use as much help as possible."

"Moments like this, you just realize how fragile life is," Brockert said. "In my 42 years in Los Angeles, I have never experienced this. But people from here are salt of the earth, hardworking, good everyday American people, and we come together and take care of each other."