Nix

The vegetarians are winning. Not only are they healthier than the rest of us, they’re saving the planet, one carrot at a time—or, more specifically, one fewer hamburger at a time. (Livestock is responsible for an estimated eighteen per cent of greenhouse gas; if everyone in the world became vegan, methane emissions would be reduced by twenty-four per cent by 2050.) But even as a plant-based diet becomes cool (guilt and peer pressure can be effective motivators), there will always be carnivores who want—who need—meat (or chicken, preferably fried) to feel complete. What’s a forward-thinking vegetarian restaurant to do? John Fraser, the chef at Nix, a new such place in the Village, finds the joy in plants.