Hawaii: Chasing long life in laid-back Waimea

Driving uphill from the black lava fields of Hawaii Island’s Kohala Coast, you know you’ve hit Waimea when the world turns green — verdant hills like giant gumdrops; Parker Ranch’s endless, emerald pastures, stretching toward towering Mauna Kea; and even a quaint chapel known widely as “the Green Church,” overlooking a large grass park in the town center.

Waimea, a sleepy town in the north end of the Big Island, is known for its laid-back vibe, its proximity to the horizon-filling Mauna Kea and the paniolo cowboy culture that evolved on the volcano’s slopes.

Lesser known to outsiders is the recent evolution — in ways to explore and experience the outdoors, in a cuisine culture that favors natural, local foods, and in the already strong sense of community.

[...] while few casual visitors will stick around long enough to reap the longevity benefits of Waimea, the town has been growing in ways that make it more welcoming and attractive to travelers.

In 2008, author Dan Buettner wrote “The Blue Zones,” a best-selling book that looks at the places around the world where people live the longest — and perhaps the happiest.

Among the keys to their longevity, he surmised, are exercising naturally, shedding stress, eating more plant-based food, drinking alcohol regularly in moderation, and having a sense of fellowship and purpose.

[...] when a national health care company adapted Buettner’s findings into a program of encouraging entire communities to create healthy change, labeling themselves “Blue Zones,” a handful of towns in Hawaii — which already had a track record for shedding stress, for natural cuisine and for an abundance of nature — signed on, including Waimea.

Though the project — now being used as a guide in 31 communities — is geared toward residents, the mind-set and developments related to the Blue Zones concept in Waimea — building on the cuisine, adding trails and encouraging projects that build community — benefit even those just staying for a night or two.

At 2,600 feet elevation, Waimea has a cooler climate than the coast, prime conditions for exercising.

From a Blue Zones perspective, more sidewalks and bike lanes — a rarity in rural Hawaii — would help locals add movement into their daily lives.

Visitors who drive through Waimea to Waipio Valley or Akaka Falls also may not be aware where they can hike or bike to enjoy the town’s equally lush scenery.

Based at Waimea’s historic Anna Ranch, a 110-acre working ranch and heritage center, Candelario has built a private mountain biking trail above the original ranch house to a tree-lined waterfall and spectacular lookout.

[...] he also offers rides on public routes anyone with a bike may traverse.

“There’s a lot to explore on great dirt roads on mountain bikes, while Old Mamalahoa Highway is spectacular — Lance Armstrong said it’s one of the top five best road rides he’s ever done,” says Candelario, referring to the narrow, 12-mile back road connecting Waimea to Honokaa on the Windward Side.

On our return shuttle, our friendly guide, Silvia, pointed out the covered, honor-system stands at the corner of farms along Mana and Kahilu roads.

Renowned for greens, strawberries and tomatoes, among other produce, Waimea has a leg up on most areas, with three farmers’ markets on Saturday mornings; the long-running Waimea Town Market at Parker School also includes fresh bread, island-grown tea and coffee, goat cheese and (shh, don’t tell) house-cured bacon and BLT sandwiches.

Even with the focus on longevity-giving greens, meat is part of the evolving food scene — which must come as a relief to Waimea’s Parker Ranch, still raising cattle on 130,000 acres, and 8,500-acre Kahua Ranch, which raises beef and lamb above the town at 8,200 feet.

Village Burgers, where we sated our post-ride appetites, allows you to swing either way, with patties made from Hamakua mushrooms, Waipio taro and ahi tuna as well as Big Island pasture-raised beef, red veal and Kahua Ranch’s Wagyu beef.

Inside the tiny counter-service restaurant in Parker Ranch Center, a signpost lists how close Village Burgers is to its other ingredients’ sources, including Kekela Farms, a fixture of the Town Market.

Waimea can stake a claim to being Hawaii’s original farm-to-table capital, since this is where Peter Merriman opened his first restaurant in 1988, after convincing local farmers to grow what he needed rather than have it shipped from the Mainland.

Another meal took us to Red Water Cafe, where blue check marks on the extensive dinner menu indicate items that fit the Blue Zone ethos, including a delectable house-smoked sashimi platter and seared ahi with local beets, tomatoes, cucumbers and onions.

From Red Water Cafe, it’s a short walk uphill to the recently remodeled Kamuela Inn, where we spent two nights in a comfortable, rustic-chic room.

Under the Blue Zones banner, Melanie says, they’re committed to “providing the best benefits as possible to employees, encouraging the staff to volunteer, having healthy potlucks and time to walk.”

Having happy, healthy staff at an attractive place to stay should also appeal to the wider community of travelers, who might otherwise overlook the green town with the new blue streak.