Worth moving to the coast for?
While vacationing in Protaras, my faithful dining companion and I both immediately knew we were going to try for a reservation at Il Boccon Divino, a place that caught our eye on the walk back to the hotel because it claimed to offer ‘authentic Italian cuisine’ and we both wanted to put that to the test.
Reservations weren’t guaranteed – Protaras comes alive in summer, and while late June isn’t quite peak season, it’s close. But since you’re reading this, you know we won that coin toss.
Il Boccon Divino is tucked just off the main strip, in a [relatively] quiet square – far enough from the crowds to be pleasant, but still close to the action. That said, it’s directly opposite another restaurant and near a children’s playground.
You win some, you lose some.
We were greeted at the entrance by a friendly waitress who led us to our seats, while another brought over the menus and an extensive wine list. The restaurant has no indoor seating – just a covered terrace and open-air tables – and is closed during the off-season.
The menu features tried-and-true Italian classics, some with a twist. It’s not overwhelming – which I appreciated – but I hope you’re well-versed in your pasta shapes. No descriptions are provided. Sure, you know tortellini but what about tortelloni or cappelletti? Paccheri? Tortiglioni?
You get the idea.
For our starter, sorry – antipasto – we ordered burrata and Tuscan ham. My companion chose paccheri (see, there it is!) in shellfish bisque with prawns, while I opted for one of the daily specials – spaghettoni puttanesca.
The moment the starter arrived, we knew we’d made the right call.
The burrata was fresh and made in house, the Tuscan cured ham was the genuine article. The burrata was rich and creamy – the moment we cut into it, the outer layer gave way to a soft, silky interior. That interior had an almost buttery texture that made each bite feel indulgent and satisfying. Despite its richness, it felt light on the palate. The Tuscan ham, meanwhile, was savoury and rich, with a complex aroma of herbs and spices, with that same melt-in-the-mouth quality.
Our mains were served in pasta bowls with wide rims and deep centres – a design that holds a generous portion of sauce and makes the dish visually appealing.
The puttanesca, anchored by anchovies that melted in the sauce, had a savoury and rich umami quality. The tomatoes brought a bright acidity, balancing the brininess of the olives and capers. The spaghettoni – though not made in-house – were cooked perfectly al dente.
The paccheri (made in-house) in shellfish bisque was a revelation. Rich and decadent, the bisque was packed with the deep, concentrated flavour of the sea, layered with savoury notes from herbs and aromatics.
It was one of those dishes that stops conversation for a moment.
For dessert, it had to be the tiramisu. “The mascarpone, from Italy, the lady’s fingers, from Italy, 100% Nicaraguan coffee and organic eggs from Cyprus, no Baileys, no Tia Maria, no Kahlua, none of that s***,” the co-owner of the restaurant told us.
And indeed, the tiramisu was light yet layered, the coffee-soaked ladyfingers retaining just enough firmness, the mascarpone rich and velvety.
A satisfying and memorable end to the meal.
“Let’s live here,” my companion said as we stood to leave.
If this review hasn’t convinced you to try Il Boccon Divino at least once, I’ll leave you with this: this review omitted, due to word constraints, just how funny and charming the co-owner is. During his hype-up of the tiramisu, he managed to tell us the story of how Charlie Chaplin once lost his own lookalike contest.
VITAL STATISTICS
SPECIALTY: Italian cuisine
WHERE: Il Boccon Divino, 28, Protaras Avenue, Eden Square, Protaras
WHEN: Monday to Friday 6pm – 12am, Saturday and Sunday 12pm – 12am
CONTACT: 357 99 972277
HOW MUCH: Starters: €9 – €24 Mains: €11 – €23