Taste Off: The best sun-dried tomatoes — and the nastiest

This is a sad time of year for those who love tomatoes. The summer crop is long-gone; seedlings have yet to be planted. The best solution? Open a jar of sun-dried tomatoes. Though the flavor and texture is nothing like the ripe, fresh version, dried tomatoes deliver an intense, sweet-tart bite of tomato deliciousness.

Dried tomatoes come in various forms, including dry packed and powdered, but for this feature, we leaned on the most common version, halves and slices packed in seasoned oil. Most grocers stock at least one brand; look for them not near the condiments, but on the vegetable aisle.

What to do with sun-dried tomatoes? Just about anything. They can be  layered with pesto on a chicken sandwich, spooned on top of goat cheese for a dip, mashed with garlic and herbs to make salad dressing, or simply diced to sprinkle on salad or pizza. They’re also an instant umami boost in soups, stews and breads.

Great sun-dried tomatoes are made with fully ripe, sweet tomatoes, then re-hydrated until tender and placed in a flavorful oil with a touch of seasoning. The result is a tender, almost juicy bite of summer. While color isn’t key to flavor, those that retain some of their original red color are much more appealing. That said, preserving color requires using sulfur dioxide in the drying process.

As delicious as sun-dried tomatoes can be, it’s easy to understand why so many people don’t like them. Nearly half the brands on store shelves are fibrous, over-salted or laced with strange, unwelcome flavors. The worst are brown blobs swimming in rancid oil.

Here’s the scoop on the rich, sweet tomato gems that pack delicious flavor — and the salty, dismal ones to avoid. Nutrition info refers to 2 tablespoons or 30 grams.

Bella Sun Luci Sun Dried Julienne Cut

Now these are what great sun-dried tomatoes should taste like. They are chewy but tender, and they deliver sweet, bold tomato flavor. Minimal salt and deep red color seals the deal for these winners. 105 calories, 8 g fat, 15 mg sodium, 6 g sugar. $3.88 for 8.5 ounces at Walmart. (Costco carries them in large jars, too.) (4 stars)

Raley’s Julienne Cut Sun-Dried Tomatoes

Rich, concentrated flavor and toothsome texture push these to the top of the list. The seasoning highlights the sweet, citrusy punch of tomato flavor, making them a great choice for serving straight out of the jar. 75 calories, 4 g fat, 54 mg sodium, 4 g sugar. $4.89 for 8.5 ounces. (4 stars)

Trader Joe’s Julienne Sliced Sun Dried Tomatoes

These are are every bit as flavorful as the top contenders, and they are packed in a tasty, fresh olive oil, but they are slightly under-hydrated. 105 calories, 7.5 g fat, 15 mg sodium, 6 g sugar. $3.79 for 8.5 ounces. (3½ stars)

Good & Gather Sun-Dried Tomato Halves

These large, soft, tender halves are unappetizingly brown and have too much seasoning — vinegar, garlic, basil, salt, pepper and hand-chopped basil — but the flavor is pleasant. 56 calories, 6 g fat, 281 mg sodium, no sugar. $3.99 for 9.8 ounces at Target. (2½ stars)

Cara Mia Julienne Style Sun Dried Tomatoes

Kudos for capturing both the color and the sweet-tart flavor of a dried tomato. Packed in sunflower rather than olive oil, these tomatoes have far more garlic and salt than they need, but the tomato flavor still shines. 150 calories, 15 g fat, 330 mg sodium, 3 g sugar. $3.79 for 8 ounces at Smart & Final. (2½ stars)

California Sun Dry Sun-Dried Tomatoes

These colorful, but uneven cuts of tomato deliver a balance of sweet and tart flavor notes, but they are unpleasantly tough and fibrous. They might work fine in a puree or a long-cooked dish. 140 calories, 12 g fat, 90 mg sodium, 3 g sugar. $3.94 for 8.5 ounces at Walmart. (2 stars)

365 Whole Foods Organic Sundried Tomatoes

These are red, but so sinewy and sour that they taste like they were made from green tomatoes. 75 calories, 4 g fat, 300 mg sodium, no sugar. $5.49 for 8.5 ounces. (1 star)

Alessi Premium Julienne Cut Sun Dried Tomatoes

Are these even tomatoes? It’s hard to say, as salt is the first, last and only flavor in this jar of bright red bits. 105 calories, 6 g fat, 285 mg sodium, 6 g sugar. $5.49 for 7 ounces at Sprouts. (½ a star)

Signature Select Halved Sun Dried Tomatoes

There’s something fishy about these dark brown tomato halves. Literally. They taste like someone added a dash of fish sauce. 75 calories, 4 g fat, 54 mg sodium, 4 g sugar. $3.99 for 7 ounces at Safeway. (No stars)

Mezzetta Sun-Ripened Dried Tomatoes

Something went terribly wrong with these brown blobs. They taste like cardboard soaked in rancid oil. 90 calories, 6 g fat, 10 mg sodium, 4 g sugar. $3.78 for 8 ounces at Walmart. (No stars)

Reviews are based on product samples purchased by this newspaper or provided by manufacturers. Contact Jolene Thym at timespickyeater@gmail.com. Read more Taste-off columns at www.mercurynews.com/tag/taste-off.