TasteFood: Greening the goddess (chicken, that is)

The essence of a green goddess sauce is (surprise!) an abundance of fresh green herbs. It’s a light, bright and refreshing dip, dressing or crema. Precisely which herbs you use in the sauce is dependent upon your taste, garden and refrigerator. Suffice to say that you should use what you like and do not skimp. I make the dressing with herbs I always have on hand, which often include parsley and cilantro. If I have chervil, tarragon, chives or dill, I’ll add them, too. Feel free to tinker and mix and match the herbs to your preference — just be sure to mind the quantity.

The sauce in this recipe is used as a marinade for the chicken and an accompaniment for serving. I’ll often make a double batch and use the remainder for dipping crudites or drizzling over roasted potatoes or other vegetables. It’s less creamy and less sweet than many goddesses, which often include mayonnaise. This one does not. If you prefer a runnier sauce, add a little more yogurt.

Green Goddess-y Chicken Skewers

Serves 4; makes about 1 cup sauce

INGREDIENTS

1½ to 2 pounds boneless skinless chicken breasts (or thighs), cut in 1-inch pieces

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Lemon wedges

Sauce:

1 cup packed Italian parsley leaves and tender stems

1 cup packed cilantro leaves and tender stems

1 cup coarsely chopped mixed herbs, such as chives, dill and/or tarragon

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice

1/4 cup whole-milk European-style yogurt

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 garlic cloves, chopped

1 scallion, white and green parts chopped

2 teaspoons drained capers

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

DIRECTIONS

Combine the sauce ingredients in a food processor. Process to blend. Taste for seasoning. Set aside about 1/2 cup for the marinade. Reserve and refrigerate the remaining sauce for serving.

Place the chicken in a large bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Pour in the marinade and stir to coat. Cover the bowl and refrigerate for at least 1 to 4 hours, stirring the chicken occasionally.

When ready to grill, remove the chicken from the marinade and thread on skewers. (If using bamboo skewers, pre-soak them for 30 minutes.)

Prepare the grill for direct cooking over medium heat. Grill the skewers until the chicken is cooked through the center, about 10 minutes, turning once or twice to evenly cook and char. (An instant-read thermometer inserted in the center of the chicken pieces will register 165 degrees.)

Serve the chicken with lemon wedges and the reserved sauce for drizzling.

Lynda Balslev is a San Francisco Bay Area cookbook author, food and travel writer and recipe developer.