Redwood City: Jellyfish aquarium, pristine seafood star at new Hurrica restaurant

First Look: Guests can arrive via land or sea for dinner nightly, lunch five days a week

It’s a rare restaurant that gets a big feature from Yachtsman Magazine. But then Hurrica is a rare destination restaurant — one that welcomes diners who arrive via land or via sea at Redwood City’s Westpoint Harbor.

Once inside, guests find a museum-caliber jellyfish aquarium. And a live-fire experience featuring pristine seafood. And they’ll learn that a century-old restored yacht inspired the restaurant’s name.

This project was initiated by marina owners Mark and Maureen Sanders, who also own the Hurrica V, which was featured in the 2013 movie, “The Great Gatsby,” starring Leonardo DiCaprio. The couple reached out to the talented team behind the restaurant Mersea on Treasure Island, chef Parke Ulrich and entrepreneur MeeSun Boice, to turn their idea into reality.

Ulrich, the chef-owner at Waterbar and Epic Steakhouse who first won acclaim in San Francisco at Farallon, and Boice brought on board Justin Baade as executive chef and Erick Cadena as general manager.

The name Hurrica was a natural.

Here’s our report from our first visit:

THE SETTING: These visionaries wisely opted for a streamlined exterior so as not to detract from the views beyond of San Francisco Bay and the boats docked at the marina. Built by general contractor Ron Taylor & Terra Nova Industries, the two-story structure has a ground level devoted to the restaurant; the second floor is home to The Club at Westpoint, a water sports club formed in 2018.

THE STARS: About 200 jellyfish float in a floor-to-ceiling aquarium constructed by Tenji Aquarium Design + Build of Carmel, creating a focal point and a conversation piece.

THE INTERIOR: The jellyfish not only steal the show, but their tank also provides a buffer between the bar and one of the dining rooms. Throughout the space, beautiful design touches — from the entrance desk porthole to the fanciful wire fish that swim above the guests — enhance but never overwhelm the space. The open kitchen is aquarium-like, with floor-to-ceiling glass. As a tribute to the city’s namesake trees, dining room tables are made from solid redwood. All told, there is seating for about 200 diners inside and out.

THE VIBE: Classy and comfortable.

THE FOOD: Ulrich and Baade have adopted a live-fire philosophy for this culinary venture. Most dishes spend time in the custom-built, 6-foot-long hearth, from the beets in the Chopped Market Lettuces salad ($16) that are roasted for five hours to the Kombu-Wrapped Lobster ($110) that steams in the embers. Hearth specialties on the day we dined also included a Whole Roasted Dorade ($55) and a 20-ounce New York Strip Roast served with Dungeness crab Hollandaise and roasted cauliflower ($120).

Thanks to a wide array of “bites” and “small plates,” a seafood lover can make a veritable feast of their favorites. The Broiled Live Sea Scallop ($12) swims in garlic chive butter with finger lime. A two-bite appetizer tops brioche toast with Mendocino Uni ($10), crisp prosciutto and cauliflower tapenade. The Baked Miyagi Oyster ($6) is served with truffled sauerkraut gratin. Small-plate options include the Tiger Prawn Cocktail ($28) and the Yuzu-Cured King Salmon with chilled sesame noodles ($21).

Is there a meat eater in your group? Executive chef Baade says he’s pretty proud of the Slow-Roasted Pork Chop ($38), served with roasted conehead cabbage, chanterelles and apple.

The lunch menu that just went into effect offers a more casual array: a Grilled Tiger Prawn Salad ($25); Ahi Tuna Tartare ($18) with accompaniments; Hurrica Burger ($21) with coal-roasted onions and house pickles; and a Prime Rib Sandwich ($25) with peppers from the plancha.

Desserts, like the rest of the menu, may change frequently. Recent offerings included a multi-layered Chocolate Peanut Butter Entremet and a Winter Citrus Semifreddo ($14 each).

THE DRINKS: Hurrica boasts a Calacatta Viola marble wrap-around bar lined with seats comfortable enough for enjoying one’s dinner. And, given the crowds during the opening weeks, the bar has become just that, another dining room. Among the signature cocktails are the Maritime Martini ($16), with cucumber- and nori-infused gin, vermouth blanc and orange bitters; and the Hurrica ($18), a sweet-tart blend of rum, vanilla vodka, passionfruit, grenadine, lemon and sparkling wine. The wine list skews Californian and French, and there are half a dozen craft brews on tap.

DON’T MISS: The Lobster Ravioli ($23) is sublime, with fresh lobster encased in handmade pasta and sauced with an aged sherry butter. It’s listed as a shareable small plate but makes a nice rich little entree.

GOOD TO KNOW: Outdoor dining on the deck is now available, weather permitting. Parking is free in the large lot right next to the restaurant.

DETAILS: Open daily for dinner from 5 to 9:30 p.m. and Wednesday to Sunday for lunch from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Westpoint Harbor, 150 Northpoint Court, Redwood City; www.hurrica.restaurant