How Do I Ask for the Braids I Want at the Salon?

Black-hair appointments are part ritual, part artistry, part trust exercise. You come in with a vision, but the outcome depends on how well you and your stylist align. And when that alignment starts to slip? That’s when you have a decision to make: Say something or stay silent. Naked Beauty host Brooke DeVard has been there. During a braid appointment with a former hairstylist, she communicated that she wasn’t happy with the direction; the parts were too big and she didn’t love how the braids were looking. The stylist got defensive yet explained why it wasn’t possible because of the type of hair DeVard bought and the length of it. “You’re always very polite, right?” says DeVard. “They’re providing a service. But it is okay to be demanding. You don’t want to be too far in — and a good stylist will check in with you.”

There is a delicate balance between rightfully speaking up when you’re unhappy with the direction a style is going because you’ve paid for it and respecting your hairstylist’s craft and experience-based feedback (and, ideally, honesty). As DeVard points out, braids are a serious investment, both in time and money. You’re sitting for hours, sometimes over two days, and paying a premium for a style meant to last weeks.

“The reason why you’re spending all this time and money to get them done is because it’s going to be a style that you can have for a month, six weeks, two months,” she explains. (She now works with Los Angeles hair artist Je’Ne Sais Quoi Hearn.)

There are some steps you can take to prevent getting too deep in before the opportunity to pivot passes, and it starts before you even walk through the door for your appointment.

First, have a consultation with the hairstylist.

A great braider asks the right questions about how you want to feel wearing them. They know that a reference photo is a starting point, not a blueprint, and they’re honest about what will work for your hair type, density, and lifestyle. Ideally, they can make adjustments in real time and catch small details that could shift the entire outcome.

For New York hair artist Ariana Greene, the process is a two-part one. Once booked, clients receive an intake form: a series of questions about color (hair is included in the service price), the current state of their hair (thick, normal, or fine), any sensitive or bald spots, and an option to upload photographs. She concludes with a box that allows clients to add any additional information they’d like to share about their hair. Greene also asks if a client would mind being recorded for social media on her form. If not, Greene doesn’t even bring out the camera.

If the stylist you’re hoping to book doesn’t offer a consultation in their service list or ask a series of questions, whether it be through a form or via phone or text, you are increasing your chances of having a hairstyle you regret.

Know how to spot the red (and green) flags

The first factor to consider is ease of communication. If it’s hard to get clear information about services, pricing, timing, or policies, trust that your appointment experience might be just as chaotic.

If the deposit is nonrefundable, regardless of the circumstances, or the stylist requires you to arrive fully prepped (blow-dried, detangled) without offering any flexibility themselves, that’s a red flag. It’s about mutual respect. Nonrefundable deposits are fair to secure a stylist’s time, but there should be reasonable exceptions, like if the stylist cancels, reschedules, or significantly changes the service. Similarly, while it’s common for stylists to ask for clean or stretched hair, if the prep demands feel extreme without any understanding of different hair types, textures, or life realities, it can signal a lack of care or professionalism. This imbalance might carry over to the appointment itself.

Look for reviews and slide into DMs.

If people mention last-minute cancellations, lateness, overbooking, or feeling rushed in the chair, that’s important context. And if you can’t find reviews, culture writer Isabel Bekele offers another option: Message past clients. “I’m not afraid to DM people I see on Instagram, like, “Hey, I love your braids. What hair did you use? How was the appointment experience?”

If it feels like the stylist is more focused on filming you than servicing you, or their page looks perfect but lacks real client testimonials or realistic photos — pause. Look for client photos that aren’t staged, filtered, or heavily edited. You want to see what the braids look like outside of the stylist’s potentially overly edited content.

Know your budget, and before you sit in the chair, ask about the price range.

Consider how much money you want to spend on your style and think holistically about not only the service itself but the tip and your hair-bundle budget. A bundle of human hair can vary from $100 to $400 per pack based on inches and ounces per pack, in addition to the quality of the hair itself. Synthetic hair is much cheaper. Make sure to ask your stylist how many packs you’ll need, because the number ranges based on the style, braid size, and the fullness you’re looking for.

Next, know the difference in hair types: synthetic vs. human hair

The type of hair you bring to your braiding appointment can make or break your final look. Synthetic hair holds shape and stiffness, while human hair offers movement and a more natural finish — key differences that impact everything from longevity to styling. Human hair can last longer than synthetic because it’s more durable and resilient to everyday wear. You can wash it and even reuse it if you properly take care of your style. Unlike synthetic hair, human hair can handle heat (depending on the hair quality). Synthetic hair, while more affordable, tends to tangle and frizz the longer you wear the style or if you’re exposed to a lot of heat and humidity. Think about how many weeks you plan to have a specific style. That will help guide which type of hair you’d like to choose.

Two summers ago, Bekele drove several hours from her hometown in Pennsylvania to the DMV area for an appointment. “With knotless braids, I struggled before I really understood the difference between human and synthetic hair,” she explains. “I’d show up to the appointment with hair completely different from the reference photo, so I wasn’t setting us up for success.” Bekele used to shy away from expressing when she’s not pleased with the direction her style was going, but this would be the last appointment she’d stay quiet.

When Bekele quickly realized that her hair wasn’t turning out how she desired, she was on the verge of tears. It’s that moment when you go to the bathroom but really go to check the progress on your braids — and realize you’re not happy. This was a moment she had invested in. So she decided to speak up. Her stylist was receptive and pivoted from boho knotless braids to box braids, which was a better fit for how Bekele wanted to look based on the type of hair she brought with her.

Bring a few photo references.

Evalyn Dennis is a hair artist who specializes in human hair braids and has worked with Beyoncé and Solange Knowles. She asks her clients a series of questions: “‘What is it that you see in this photo that your eyes gravitate toward the most?’” explains Dennis. “If a client tells me, ‘I like how much volume it has,’ I already know what I’m going to do. If they say, ‘I like how flat it is,’ I already know what I’m going to do. If they like the layers, I know exactly how to approach it.” She suggests no more than three references.

Know how long you want your braids

If your natural hair is already fragile, or if the braids feel too heavy, you risk putting unnecessary stress on your roots. Longer braids can feel heavy if their placement isn’t carefully planned. With the right technique, a stylist can distribute the weight in a way that makes even extra-long braids feel light. The goal is to find a balance.

Once you are in the chair, ask the stylist to braid a few so you can see the thickness.

Despite references, your hair won’t look exactly like the photos —and you shouldn’t want it to. Ask your stylist to braid a few braids of different thickness for you to choose. “Everybody’s natural density is different, everybody’s head is different,” Dennis adds — and should be considered when you’re thinking about the outcome of your style. Remember: It’s a reference. You and your stylist are both walking a line; while they listen to your desires, you also have to trust their expertise. Be open to expert guidance. Stylists can refine your vision into something achievable and easy to maintain based on your preference.

As things are progressing, check in.

If your stylist doesn’t check in with you, check in with them. “I’ve learned now to always make sure — especially if it’s your first time working with a stylist — I’m facing a mirror. Make sure you can see the work, and stop and check in on the work,” DeVard says.

Greene has built-in check-ins so she doesn’t get too far before a client is unhappy. “I always tell people to stand up and show me how they want their hair to move and fall. I start in the back, and sometimes a client will step away — maybe go to the bathroom — then come back and realize they want longer braids. In that case, I just adjust from that point forward. The longer braids will naturally cover the shorter ones in the back, so it blends seamlessly.

Before you head out, ask about aftercare.

Seems like a no-brainer, but it’s always better to ask in the moment than have to follow up later.