Do You Need a $490 Perfume?
When Bottega Veneta introduced its first collection of fragrances last year under the creative direction of Matthieu Blazy (just before he announced his departure for Chanel), it was a slam-dunk showstopper. Not just because all five fragrances smelled fantastic, but because their presentation was stunning — with wavy, organically shaped glass bottles inspired by traditional Venetian glassblowing techniques and hefty green marble bases meant to evoke the walls and floors of the city’s churches and palaces. This was a rare (maybe unprecedented) instance of perfume bottles being worth the price of entry alone — which, at $490 a pop, is really saying something, even if they are infinitely refillable.
Now, the next edition has landed: a trio of scents collectively called Mezzanotte, or “midnight” in Italian. This time, the caps are different colors and the bases are fashioned from black Marquina marble. If money is no object, you might want to add one of these to your collection. But which one will you choose?
What’s the story behind the new fragrance collection?
Like the scents in the previous collection, the three Mezzanotte fragrances are inspired by the idea of Venice as a center of global trade. They weave together aromatic essences from all over the world, inspired, as they say, by the weave in Bottega’s signature intrecciato bags to create something beautiful and unique. All of them are predominantly based around a woody note, and while ostensibly unisex, they definitely skew masculine. Overall, they are very different from the five fragrances that came out last year: They are richer, more complex, and — honestly — less universally appealing. Which, for some shoppers, is a good thing.
What do the new Bottega Veneta scents smell like?
Bottega Veneta Goodmorning Midnight Parfum
This one opens with a surprising burst of juicy wild strawberry. Before you can think for a second that it smells like a teen body spray, though, the fruit is quickly engulfed by a warm, leathery wave of oud. It’s an unusual combination, but it works: The strawberry is woven together with a radiant, dewy rose note, which softens the oud so that it never becomes too heavy or manly. Bottega positions Goodmorning Midnight as the celebratory party fragrance of the bunch. It’s definitely the youngest, brightest, and most feminine.
Bottega Veneta Hinoki Parfum
Here, the piney scent of Hinoki (the aromatic wood used to build Japanese temples that has recently become a new “It” note in men’s fragrances) is deepened with a twist of Siberian fir balsam and earthy patchouli. The effect is grounding and serene. It’s like a fancy sauna — oaky, warm, and radiant — and it leaves a comforting afterglow on skin that lasts for hours. The most masculine of the three and also the safest bet if you are looking to wear something that makes other people want to lean in close.
Bottega Veneta Almost Dawn Parfum
Almost Dawn is the most interesting of the new launches. Its combination of a white truffle note with chestnut and vanilla gives it a foodie appeal, but not in the sweet dessert way that we are so used to smelling. It smells earthy, woody, and mushroom-y, before softening into a trail of creamy vanilla. It’s cocooning and long-lasting, with the sort of throw that will get you noticed from across a crowded dance floor. Great for niche-scent enthusiasts and those who like big, statement-making fragrances. Maybe don’t wear it out to dinner, though — this is definitely one that dominates everything else in the room.
We asked travelers at JFK which of the new Bottega fragrances they would buy for themselves or someone else. It seemed that Hinoki was the favorite.
Sophia, a 27-year-old brunette en route to Sicily to visit family: “I like Hinoki a lot — it’s smoky,” she said. “I like Goodmorning Midnight even more. It’s flowery. I would definitely wear it.” One she didn’t like? Almost Dawn: “I sniff it and immediately think, No.”
Lizzie, a British mid-30s blonde, standing in line for a flight to London: “Goodmorning Midnight speaks to me. It’s weird, right? Fruity but also really warm and cozy.” For a date? “I would like someone I date to wear Hinoki — it’s sexy but definitely for a man.”
Michael, a sporty 40ish man in a hoodie on his way to Barcelona for a wedding. “Hinoki is for sure the best one. It smells like a wood cabin. I would wear it, but I wouldn’t buy it for myself,” he said. He wouldn’t wear Almost Dawn or Goodmorning Midnight: “Almost Dawn smells like an old woman’s house, and Goodmorning Midnight is too sweet for me.”
Daniel, a 20-something man on his way to visit his mother in Naples, Florida: “Goodmorning Midnight is my favorite. Is it oud? I think either a man or a woman can wear it. Almost Dawn could be good for winter. It’s very intense — I’d say definitely more of a man’s scent. Same with Hinoki, but it’s not as aggressive. If someone bought me any of these, I’d be into it.”