Find feasts fit for royalty, pretty-as palaces and plenty of retail therapy in this Turkish city
ON both sides of the Bosphorus, twinkling lights embrace you.
Welcome to Istanbul.
From pristine palaces to fabulous foods, Robin McKelvie delves into the must-do’s and have-to-see’s of Europe’s ancient frontier city.
POP BY THE PALACE
Head to the historic heart of Istanbul and begin at Topkapi Palace, the city’s unmissable attraction.
It’s well worth the £21.80 entry fee to see the opulent state rooms, harem and verdant gardens where Ottoman sultans once presided (Muze.gen.tr/muze-detay/topkapi).
Nearby the recently re-opened Basilica Cistern is a riot of colonnaded pools with striking lighting and modern sculpture.
Entry costs £10 (Yerebatansarnici.com).
Meanwhile, a visit to Istanbul Archaeology Museums – The Archaeology Museum, The Museum of the Ancient Orient and The Tiled Kiosk Museum – is much more fun that it sounds, with a dizzying collection of over a million artefacts and the grand sarcophagus of Alexander The Great.
Tickets cost £5.80 (Muze.gen.tr/muze-detay/arkeoloji).
SAIL TO ASIA
Set sail from Besiktas to Kadıköy on the public ferry across the Bosphorus Strait and you’ll travel between Europe and Asia in just 15 minutes – and for just 62p!
The Kadıköy district bustles with cafes and bars.
Taste a dizzying array of Turkish Delight flavours, like pomegranate, pineapple and mango, before you buy at Haci Bekir (Hacibekir.com).
Or sip properly strong Turkish coffee for little more than a pound at Sekerci Cafer Erol – it’s best enjoyed with sweet baklava in the shady courtyard (Sekercicafererol.com).
Later, wander down Moda, arguably the hippest street in Istanbul, and grab a local Bomonti beer, £3.20, at Fil Pub Moda, before a sunset ferry ride back.
HAGGLE FOR KILIMS
At the legendary Grand Bazaar, more than 3,000 shopkeepers make for a thrilling shopping experience, as spices fill the air and endless cups of apple tea are poured.
Pick up a kilim rug or a coffee set as a memento (Kapalicarsi.com.tr).
Elsewhere, Taksim and Istiklal Street are the epicentres of Istanbul’s modern retail culture – seek out Mavi, with jeans for under £20 (Mavi.com) and Defacto for trend-led fashion (Defacto.com.tr).
The vintage tram down Istiklal to Tünel takes you towards the waterfront and the medieval Galata Tower.
Tickets cost £14.60 (Muze.gov.tr).
SCOFF A WET BURGER
Make like a local and order a Kumpir, a baked potato heaped with fillings such as cheese and olives.
Beltas Cafe in the Ortaköy district serves them up with views of the Bosphorus, from £2.50 (Beltas.com.tr).
Enjoy a “wet burger” – a patty roasted in delicious tomato sauce – at Kızılkayalar Hamburger in Besiktas (Kizilkayalar.com.tr).
Or head for Galeyan Restaurant in Sultanahmet for mezze feasts by Turkish TV chef Yunus Emre Akkor (Galeyann.com).
The new waterfront Galataport district also offers a whirl of eating options, but make sure you tuck into the slow-roasted octopus, £11.50, at Muutto Anatolian Tapas Bar (Facebook.com/Muuttoanatoliantapasbar).
BREAKFAST LIKE A SULTAN
Torn between a great view or fab location?
No need – you can have both at the Conrad Istanbul Bosphorus hotel.
Rooms are sleek and modern – the rooftop Summit Bar & Terrace even more so, with its sushi served alongside skyscraper-kissed vistas.
Plus, there’s the treat of outdoor and indoor pools.
Doubles start from £150 B&B, with a spread of fresh fruit, Turkish pastries and cooked-to-order omelettes come morning (Hilton.com).
FYI
Istanbul used to be the capital of Turkey.
It changed to Ankara in 1923, after the country became a republic.
Flights from the UK to Istanbul cost from £108 return.
Plan your trip at Goturkiye.com.