The British beach town that is pretty even in the winter – and is home to the UK’s only coastal national park
WE’RE driving to Wales for an out-of-season break, as I turn on the radio . . .
“And now the weather. An amber weather warning is in place for most of the UK today as Storm Isha brings 90mph winds and driving rain to most parts. After Storm Isha, Storm Jocelyn is predicted to bring more chaos.”
I go from thinking of amazing coastal walks and breathtaking views to worrying about our cottage roof blowing off.
We were heading to Keeston to stay in a property from Pembrokeshire Coastal Cottages.
Our home for the next four nights was a couple of miles from the sea and a great base to explore this beautiful western corner of Wales.
Luckily, Isha wasn’t due to peak until later on our first day so we headed for the beach to blow away the cobwebs after our long drive and give our dog a run on the sand.
Although the full storm hadn’t arrived yet the wind decided to make an early appearance at the aptly named Newgale Beach.
The cobwebs weren’t so much blown away as sand-blasted.
The walk was an exhilarating mix of stunning views and admiration for the sheer power of nature – we loved it.
A few miles up the coast is St Davids, Britain’s smallest city on account of its 12th-century cathedral.
Situated in the UK’s only coastal national park, we’re very near the most westerly point of Wales – nearer Ireland than Cardiff.
We headed south in search of a pub to watch the storm lash its way up the coast, and found just the spot – The Galleon Inn in Broadhaven.
Its 3ft-thick walls had obviously seen a few storms and it felt like the perfect place to find a window seat and enjoy nature’s show.
The days are short at this time of year so we headed back to the cottage, closed the curtains, fired up the log burner, poured a warming glass of wine and put our feet up with a plate of Welsh cakes – scone-like biscuits made with fruit and best served warm.
The owners had supplied an impressive array of boardgames and jigsaws to while away our storm-bound evening.
The cottage was well appointed, with two en-suite double rooms and a twin room next to the main bathroom.
The kitchen was immaculate, with everything you’d expect of a home from home.
We’d been given a hamper on our arrival, full of locally made treats such as jam, chocolate, toffee waffles, a Bara Brith fruit loaf and those delicious Welsh cakes.
We also found a bag containing five bobble hats – very welcome.
But the following day we awoke to clear blue skies.
We jumped in the car and headed to Tenby determined to make the most of the weather.
Tenby is the jewel in crown of this coast with its colourful houses, miles of sandy beaches and quirky shops and restaurants.
In high season it is teeming with visitors but today we had the place to ourselves.
BFG author Roald Dahl spent many happy Easters in Tenby as a child and you can still rent The Cabin where he and his family stayed.
Just up the road from Dahl’s holiday home are dozens of pubs and restaurants serving local produce and freshly brewed beers.
After lunch and a nose about the shops, a stroll along the beach will knock off a few of the extra calories you’ve just consumed.
Bobble hats
As we left Tenby, the wind was getting up as Storm Jocelyn decided to gate-crash our holiday.
The log burner and Welsh cakes were calling again as we headed back to Bwthyn Clyd cottage, which appropriately translates to “cosy cottage” in English.
The blue skies of the previous day were replaced by looming rain clouds.
So, where best to go to shelter from the elements on a day like this?
Pembroke Castle. It has survived everything nature has thrown at it since the 11th Century.
The castle was restored in the early 20th Century and has been a popular tourist attraction since.
It’s easy to spend hours poking about in its nooks and crannies.
Wales in the winter might not be everyone’s cup of tea (and Welsh Cakes) but it certainly went down a storm (or two) with us.
GO: Pembrokeshire
STAYING THERE: Seven nights’ self-catering for six at Bwthyn Clyd in Keeston costs from £514 in total, while a four-night break is from £386.
Up to two pets can stay, for £15 each per week.
Coastalcottages.co.uk or call 01437 765 765.