Pacific Grove: Lesser-known spot offers plenty to enjoy
Carmel remains famed for its beaches, and the fish guts at Fisherman’s Wharf in Monterey still smell.
Pacific Grove maintains a disproportionate number of churches per capita, but now finds itself better known for its a mix of colorful Victorian houses, coastal storybook aesthetics and cozy community vibe that earns it the title “America’s last hometown.”
Two of the most mouthwatering, down-home and locally loved places to eat in the Monterey Bay area sit steps apart on the town’s main drag, which allows for flexibility should one of them have a wait.
Holly’s Lighthouse Cafe specializes in hearty breakfasts like the robust “morning melt” and chicken-fried steak and eggs, or sweeter treats like carrot-cake pancakes and Reese’s Pieces waffles.
The Red House, above, takes a more sophisticated approach, with dishes such as smoked salmon potato pancakes and cinnamon brioche French toast (pictured).
[...] within walking distance: relatively new Crema, in a charming Victorian, with superb espresso, chicken ’n’ waffles and calamari po’ boys.
Shop off the calories in the surrounding “downtown” shopping area with its wealth of small and well-curated shops, including the Quill, Habitat, various art galleries and quality antique stores, plus thrift stores like the Church Mouse, Animal Friends Rescue Project and St. Mary’s.
Arm thyself for a picnic on the water at Grove Market and Pavel’s Backerei, two institutions that sit opposite each other on classic small-town drive Grove Avenue.
Deli sandwiches, fine cheeses and classic counter service beckon at the timeless neighborhood market; celebrated chocolate-bellied croissants, superior breads and cream-cheese danishes await at Pavel’s, if they haven’t sold out.
The goodies pair well with Berwick Park and its cypresses, expansive lawn and ocean vistas, though the same scenic effect can be said of much of the coast, easily accessible along the Recreational Trail, including Coral Street beach, the Great Tide Pool and Hopkins Marine Station Beach (for all the harbor seals one can take).
To reach the Rec Trail, walk downhill toward the water and enjoy the adorable cottages and Victorians along the way.
While history lives on seemingly every street in Pagrovia (just look for the historic plaques), Pacific Grove Natural History Museum, established in 1833, proves a whole other animal, starting with the iconic life-size gray whale, Sandy, out front.
Inside, eight permanent exhibitions include a native plant garden, the Monarch Gallery and Birds of Monterey County, with hundreds of “life-mounted” birds, ranging from passenger pigeon to the California condor, supported by annual displays and special exhibits (“Wildflower Show” and “Paper Monarchs” at the moment, respectively, among others).
Across Asilomar Avenue, the conference grounds’ under-the-radar Phoebe’s Cafe offers superb sustainable foodstuffs, local beer and wine, and broad decks surrounded by big trees and a welcoming lodge environment.
A quick walk from the beach, landmark Fishwife specializes in great cocktails and seafood (pineapple express martinis and coconut oysters are $5 during happy hour).
The Sunset Business District has superior home improvement stores for the opportunistic shopper.
The sunset bargains — from the sand dabs almondine to the bacon-wrapped meat loaf, at just $9.90 — pack the Beach House at Lovers Point as soon as it opens at 4 p.m. (deals stop after 5:30 p.m.).
The idyllic and adjacent peninsular park boasts lawns, benches, a community pool, a snack bar and protected cove beaches that draw kids, surfers and scuba divers.
[...] the actual sunset is foxier on the other side of Pacific Grove, back at Asilomar or, better yet, at neighboring Spanish Bay in Pebble Beach, where the bagpiper plays at dusk, good snacks and drinks are standard, and large fire pits and big benches encourage lingering.