The UK noodle restaurant that’s like actually visiting Tokyo
I WAS 18 years old the first time I went to Tokyo – and I very quickly realised that it was one of my favourite places in the world.
I’ve been back since, but no matter how many times I visit, I always want to return and see even more of it than I already have.
However, funding a trip to one of the most expensive countries in the world – and sitting through the painfully long flight – is not something you can do too frequently.
Luckily for me, there are places in the UK where I can scratch my itch for a taste of Japanese life.
One of those can be found in London, right next to Leicester Square.
Although it’s in a hugely touristy area, it’s not a particularly well-known spot, despite the fact it really ought to be.
Panton Yokocho describes itself as “a living ramen museum” and is decked out with red lanterns, retro music posters and Japanese toys.
The restaurant has managed to capture the atmosphere of a bygone Tokyo alleyway very well and transported it to the centre of London.
It’s almost like taking a long-haul flight, just by stepping through its door, which can be spotted by looking for the animatronic chopsticks lifting noodles from a giant bowl on the street outside.
What’s more, Panton Yokocho is very popular with homesick Japanese visitors and expats, making it feel like an even more authentic experience.
It also goes some way to showing just how good their food is.
For a pretty inexpensive menu, the options are almost as tasty as some of the better ramen I have tried in cities and towns throughout Japan.
The spicy miso ramen has the perfect blend of spice and umami flavours in its broth, while the Napoli ramen offers a fusion of Italian and Japanese food, for those who want to try something a bit different.
Each of the ramen are date-stamped, telling you both the year and the city in which they were created, an example of the “museum” element the restaurant is pushing for.
As interesting as that is, what’s really great about Panton is just how immersive a dining experience it is.
The food and the décor both work extremely well together, with neither phoned-in or put there as an afterthought.
Without the former, it risks being a tacky gimmick, without the latter, it’s just a good noodle restaurant, of which there are many in London.
But having both elements really makes the restaurant stand apart from others and keeps people like me coming back to spend a bit of time pretending I’m back in one of my favourite countries.
The drinks menu is even well-considered, which is not always the case in themed restaurants like this.
Melon cream soda is a popular drink in Japan, particularly with kids, and the one in Panton Yokocho is as sweet and luminous as I remember it being.
The bright green concoction comes complete with a satisfying dollop of ice cream, as you would find it in Tokyo, and is a joy to slurp down, alongside your noodles.
The cocktails are also excellent, with Japanese and East Asian flavours used to create a collection of drinks that are unlike those elsewhere in the city.
Both the dirty lychee and the shochu sour went down very nicely, and for just £7 a pop at happy hour (Mon-Thu 4-6pm) it’s worth sampling a few.
At first, I was sceptical about how good Panton Yokocho would be, with plenty of restaurants around Leicester Square guilty of both overpromising and overcharging.
However, it served as an excellent reminder of exactly why I love Japan quite so much, and why I need to get myself back there again as soon as possible.
For now, Panton will work as a good enough replacement.
Meanwhile, we tried the Squid Game experience in London – and made it out alive.
And this new immersive Paddington Bear attraction is coming to London later this year.